I've got a 2500 auto 3/4 ton quad cab 98.5.

I've always thought the front wheels have been stifff...as far as bearings go.
My front tires or brakes do not last very long. And the alighment is fine.
I was thinking of loosening the front bearings to see if that is something that would make a difference,...OR would it just cause problems. I know some service manuals will tell you exactly how many pounds of force it should take on a wheel stud to make it turn, but I don't know if there is such a figure for the dodge beast.

Any info would be helpful. I mean, if I'm on ice in the winter, I will apply breakes,..the front wheels will stop and the back ones will sometimes still be trying to spin me off the side of the road. I wish I had a stick shift.

I also thought if there was any possible way to lower my idle from 875 to 700 or 750, that may help.

 

on a 2000 1 ton it's 280 fp hope this helps



bad 1 ton

 

280 fp sounds more like the amount the give to torgue the wheel nuts down.
In fact, I'm sure it is. Unless fp has a new meaning besides foot-lbs.

 

280 foot lbs will snap your wheel studs of before you get that high, try closer to 80-100.

 

Stop me if I'm wrong, but don't the newer trucks have 'unit' bearings that are sealed and non-adjustable? No re-pack, no end user pre-load adjust or anythnig...I think. From your symptoms, it sounds as though your rear brakes need to be adjusted.
Not sure on the idle adjust on the 24v, I've got stone-age tech under my hood!

 

I think you are right. My rear brakes need to be adjusted. They probably need to be replaced. I've had a set of pads setting in the shop for it for about 2 years now.

I have not done 1 ton or 3/4 ton rear brakes for over 20 years. I do not remember how. I just remember it only seemed complicated until I did it, then I thought it was easy. 20 years is a long time (I think..25. to be exact.)

I have the rear wheel axle locknut sockets and everything, but I am a little shy about tearing it apart with my spare truck out of town. Even though it should only be a half hour job. I have air drives and all of that.

My plaster contractor friend told me it was easy (he has 2 HD trucks) and not to worry about it. But I wanted to at least to find a detailed instruction sheet to read up on it. One time I pullled of the bearing cover and I think I may have even pulled the axle out, on the left side, Put chickened out and put it all back to wait to find an instruction sheet.

 

Puke, you do not specify 4wd or 2wd.


The 4wd is a sealed bearing, but the 2wd are tapered bearings. You can remove and repack the taper bearings.

If your front brakes are wearing out real fast, I would first look at how you are driving it. That engine is heavy up there, and if you wait till the last minute, and stand of the brakes to slow down, then you will wear them out pretty quickly.

Second, your calipers could be sticking. This also causes premature wear on the inside pad (thats the side that the caliper is pushing on).

Your tires are wearing too fast? How many miles is it taking you to wear the front tires down? and what kind of tires are they?

 

I'm 2 wheel drive.

I've had 2 sets of goodyears (the model # that came with the truck) and 2 sets of knockoffs on the front..That is how much tire the front chews up in about 70K miles or so. THey don't appear to wear much differently than the goodyears. All load range E. The back tires wear almost nothing at all.

The pads wear evenly.
I drive like an old dude not in a hurry (not quick to accellerate or stop) even though I'm 45 or 6 (ask the wife),. I am in the L.A. area so there is plenty of stop and go driving...even on the freeway.

I'm thinking front pads go 8K or so.
My idle is around 900 most of the time. give or take, I wish it was at 725 because it sure pulls hard (in gear at idle) compared to my Yukon, but I have no idea how to change it wihtout screwing with something electronic...and don't want to monkey with the apps unless I know for sure I'm OK to change it.

Anway, does that help. I sure appreciate you guys reading my post and trying to help.

 

You need to adjust your rear brakes. The self adjusters rarely work. Better yet you need to replace the slave cylinders with GMC 1 ton wheel cylinders. Do a search. Costs $30 (includes 6 pack of adult beverage) and you WILL stop faster. I get 20K out of my front pads now.

 

Well, we are getting somewhere..
If the rear self adjusters rarely work (on mine I can safely assume they never work), how do I adjust them????

 

If you have a anti spin rear diff it can be tricky. I just take the drums off and adjust them so they barely fit back on, then back them off a turn. You'll notice a difference right away. If they are VERY hot after running a few miles they are too tight. You can adjust them through the adjustment openings on the bottom of the backing plate. Use the rear most hole.

You could try adjusting them now and see if it helps. I would start out with no more than 6 clicks per side. If you tighten them too tight you'll need two thin bladed screw drivers. One to push the adjuster away from the star wheel, the other to turn the adjuster backwards.

Your E brake is a good indication of the rear brakes also. It should start "grabbing" in less than 1/2 the travel of the peddle.

Rear brakes are not my favorite thing becuase so much of it is trial & error and guess work, so there may be someone else with a better explination.

The GMC 1 ton wheel cylinder thing IS the real deal though. It works great!

Use the search also.