I have a 2001 24v. I just installed a holley pusher pump on the frame in addition to my intank pump. I tested to see if the holley will suck through a dead intank pump and it won't. I don't like the fact that my whole fuel system and holley pusher pump relies on the intank lp to operate. If the lp malfunctions there's goes my whole fuel system. The holley won't suck through it.

So I either want to install a drawstraw 2 or remove the intank pump and put it back to whatever was there stock with just a tube to suck fuel out of. The stock option sounds better to me.

What do I need to put it back to stock without the intank lp?

If that's way too much money, where do you drill for the drawstraw? What about metal shavings in your fuel tank? Will the drawstraw pickup be in a similar position to the stock pickup? Does it have a mesh screen of any kind to stop big debris from getting sucked into the fuel system?

My plan once I get an unhindered draw of fuel is to mount two holleys side by side. One wired off the factory lp relay and the other wired into a key on source with a pressure switch plumbed into the main fuel line. The first holley will run normally. The second one will activate if the pressure to the system drops below a certain psi. I also plan on wiring in a led of some sort to notify me when the second pump is running. Should be a pretty fool proof system.

TIA

 

If I was going through all the trouble I would yank the intake pump and go strictly with a draw straw installed in the OEM fuel module.

Jim

 

I'm not sure what that means... If I yank the retrofitted intank pump and replace it with the stock setup, don't I have straight fuel lines into the tank at that point? Why the need for a draw straw also?

 

Draw straw is bigger diameter, so you'd have less restricion on the pump inlet.

I haven't seen the intank pump setup, but the stock fuel pickup module has a plastic top and bottom, with a steel frame that will allow you to adjust the height. Has a strainer on the bottom of the module.

The Draw Straw 2 is about $50 and bypasses your intank pump. You might want to quiz Vulcan whether the pump will get pulled out, or if it will just sit dormant in the tank from here on out. Either way, pulling the module out would be the better way to install the draw straw, atleast you can see what you're doing better, more free room, and less likely to get crap inside the tank.

Unless you can get a stock module for $50 or less (Dodge wanted something like $600 when mine became 2 pieces), I'd go for the DS2 and forget about it.

 

One thing to remember is when you install a draw straw, you cannot - read CANNOT - let your tank get much below a quarter tank.
The reason being is your fuel sloshes around in the tank and when the level gets that low, the draw straw will start to draw air when the fuel moves from the DS.
You can replace the intank pump and sender with a stock sender without the pump. You can get them on Ebay all the time. They are being removed all the time, so they are always available. The reason you can run the stock setup lower is because the pickup sits in what is like a small cup at the bottom of the pickup assembly. This keeps the fuel from sloshing away from the pickup and makes sure that there is always fuel at the pickup.
The down side as stated before is the size of the DS. It is 3/8" or 1/2" pipe and the stock pickup tube is no more than 1/4".
If you are staying fairly stock and will not require huge fueling requirements, then replace the intake pump pickup with a stock unit without the pump. If you are going to go big and will require more fuel in the future, install a draw straw and just watch your fuel and do not let it get below 1/2 tank.

 

I've had mine below 1/8 of a tank numerous times, never had an issue. Mine is on the strainer, which is about 1/4 to 1/2" off the bottom of the tank. The module acts a bit like a sump and will hold fuel inside. The return line dumps inside the stock module.

 

Thank you! Excellent information. Just the fact that you can't go below 1/4 tank with the drawstraw is the deal breaker. Who designs something like that? That's ridiculous.

Anyway I will search ebay for the stock pickup without the pump.

Thanks.

 

Just found one on ebay. Will a 2004 fuel tank sending unit work on a 2001?

 

No. I went through that, not long ago. You need one from a 2nd gen truck.

 

I agree with what b4wheeler says. But really you don't want to drive under 1/4 tank of fuel for any reason using the stock sending unit or draw straw. You fuel acts as a coolant for your Injector pump. When you run low on fuel... your fuel heats up... causing your ip to not cool properly. I rarely drive with my tank below 8 gals. I have the draw straw and i worry more about hot fuel than air in the fuel lines. Just food for thought however you make up your mind.

 

I have run my Draw Straw done to the 'E' and never sucked air.

If you are sucking air under normal road conditions, the tube is nowhere near the bottom of the tank.

And at the 'E' mark I have had to put in 30 gallons of fuel. It's all about the install. The factory systems pickup was at a greater distance from the tank bottom than my setup.

Dave

 

Either way you have to drop your fuel tank. I would install the draw tube. They are Really easy! And you will never have to drop your tank again if you decide to bomb your truck down the road.

 

Jacking up the side of the box I think would be the easier solution. Don't have to juggle with fuel sloshing around, still lots of room to work.

 

I have not had a problem with my DrawStraw and letting the fuel tank below 1/4. Typically I don't do that often regardless. I have read about some people where the DrawStraw causes problems on a low fuel tank, not sure what I did differently. I measure carefully and cut the tube off at the angle Vulcan reccomended. I also removed the top screen in the OEM tank module.

As far as my comment about the in-tank pump, you could drill the tank (its high density plastic) if you want to get the same effect as a DrawStraw. IMO the DrawStras would work as good with fewer problems / expense. I would leave the in-tank pump installed only if I wanted it for an installed back up.

I was really not interested in any in-tank set-up when I did my fuel upgrades. On my truck I have plumbed the OEM Carter in the system paralell to the WalBro as an installed back-up. I normally just run using the WalBro. I can valve the Carter in, swap the power lead over, and away I go in about 5 minutes.

FWIW I cannot pull fuel pressure below about 12 psi with my set up. My set-up is essentially has all AN -8 fittings with 1/2 inch hose from the tank to the VP44 (the WalBro does use 3/8 fittings that were adapted). I run a GS-391 which is rated at 50 gph vice a GS-392 which is rated at 100 gph. The 391 seems to be more than enough pump. So far I am very pleased (knock on wood) with the WalBro's performance.

All these electric pumps will fail eventually, ussually at the worst of times. Dropping the tank or lifting the bed to replace one is just a PITA. I can change pumps in less than 1 hour if I need to and hardly get dirty.

Jim

 

I'm a little surprised the Holley won't draw fuel through the intank pump. I have basically the same setup as you with the Carter LP on the frame and it will suck fuel through the intank with no problems. It's also pulling fuel through a large Fleetgaurd 20 micron filter/water seperator and will hold 10psi with the intank turned off (26psi if they're both running).
What's your pressure with both pumps running?
Mike