Just bought a case of 15 40 royal purple and going to try changing it tomorrow. Any thing I should know for my first time. The engine should be hot so that the oil will drain better right. 9 in the engine 1 in the filter then check, right. Add as needed. Any thing else let me know. Thanks

Going to do the tranny next.

 

Actually, before you've started the truck in the morning is the best time. Its all settled in the pan. But, it doesn't really matter honestly, hot or cold. Hot will just make sure that when you get it on your hand it'll burn you if you arent wearing gloves.

 

Like That! never considered it but should work...at least in the summer! If you let it drain for an hr or so, while you go do something else...I think you'll find it's 10 qts plus 1.
Also (tex23455), resist temptation to over tighten drain plug! Has caused some problems (leaks & cracks) in the past. Finger tight plus 1 turn max works for me.

RJ

 

I have an Fumoto drain valve on my truck to eliminate drain plug issues. Neat little ball valve and that's it!

Having the valve allows me to do hot oil changes, and I prefer hot changes.

My theory is that soot and a lot of particles settle out when the engine sits awhile. When you drain cold, thick oil, the oil film on everything in the engine is thicker--including the oil pan. This means that those settled particles aren't coming out with the oil drain.

The drastic change in oil viscosity with temp means to me that you can often drain the oil faster when it's hot.

Ask yourself if you would be better able to get all of the Honey out of an engine or all of the Water out of it. Obviously, the thicker viscosity will stay in the engine more than the thinner stuff.

True, when you shut down, the hot oil drains into the pan anyway, so the only real concern is the oil in the pan.

So I personally think that hot oil drains remove more impurities, and given enough time will actually get out more of the old oil. Hot oil drains quite quickly, so it's not like you have to wait forever for the oil to drain out of the engine's top end.

jh

 

Good point....IF there are large enough particles that they will settle out! I don't know?
Dispersant additive is suppose to keep anything, too small for the filter to catch, in suspension....and it does. But after sitting overnight.... don't know?

I have always drain hot....and let it keep draining for 30-60 min. Still get some fairly good drip action! Just hate to add new to any old.

RJ

 

The first time I drain a used vehicle I drain it cold. Then I drive for a couple of hundred miles and then I change oil and filter again this time hot. From then on drain hot. Just my compulsive self.

 

I've worked on cars and trucks for 37 years and I like to drain 'em cold. I've pulled oilpans off of engines that were driven from the lot to the lift, pulled the pan to change parts, the oil dripped for over 12 hr and there was still sludge in the bottom of the pan. Cars that are towed in and pushed on to the lift don't drip, all the oil is in the pan. So for those of you that like to change it hot pull the plug and wait 12 hr. It'll be the best oil change of your life.

 

Agree

Agree

I've always changed mine hot and left it draining for about 30 minutes or about 2 beverages, until it's stopped dripping, I will be doing it again this weekend using Dyno oil. If someone can prove to me cold is better I will try that but I've always heard hot was better, HOHN's post was my philosophy.

 

Good input 'IBMobile'! Professional experience counts. Motivated me to test the theory.....

Last night, did an test with dirty (used) oil. It's been sitting on garage floor, in a 2.5 gal, wide mouth plastic jug for almost 2 weeks.
Poured it out very slowly and found no sediment in bottom of jug.
Than I filtered some of the poured oil through a paper towel. Lots of black particulate was captured by the filter. It had stayed in suspension for the two weeks... had not settled out!
Think I'll try the cold oil change next time!

Note: Results may or may not vary with different brands of oil? I use a high quality synthetic oil designed for high performance and longer life.

RJ

 

Good to know. It sure is nice to have guys like Rowland around!

 

Just make sure you fill the oil filter to the top, takes about 1 quart, before installing the new one, ive always warmed mine up before changes.

 

Thanks guys for all the advise I will let you know how it goes. Going to try it Hot.

 

I would just run rotella T in there instead of that synthetic which seems to be harder on seals because its a thinner oil

 

A 40 wt oil (at operating temp) is a 40 wt oil.... is a 40 wt oil! Can't be thinner.
But I do understand your comment...higher quality synthetic base oils do have a tendency to find potential leaks more easily than mineral based oil.... due to
1- less (read no) impurities
2- more consistant molecular structure
3- Less likely to oxidize and thicken up with use.

RJ

 

Justin - do you ever worry that the ball valve will get knocked or open on its own? This seems like a neat thing but I would be worried I would pull the Spyhunter oilslick... And I spend enough time worring about VP X+1. (X currently is 5)
jason