DIY: Coolant Flush (Help & Suggestions Please)
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DIY: Coolant Flush (Help & Suggestions Please)
So summer is here and I have been thinking now is a good time to change my coolant and flush the system. I have owned my truck for about a year and half now and have put a little over 30k miles on it, I'm not sure at what intervals the coolant should be changed so I figure now is better than later.
So what is the easiest, most effecient way to go about it? I'm assuming just disconnect the bottom radiator hose, drain everything, throw the garden hose in the top of the radiator flush it real good, reconnect the bottom hose, and refill the system.
What tools will I need?
What is the capacity of the system (how many gallons)?
What is a good ratio (50 -50? I do live in warm So Cal )?
What is the recommended brand of coolant (anything in particular)?
Thanks for the help guys
So what is the easiest, most effecient way to go about it? I'm assuming just disconnect the bottom radiator hose, drain everything, throw the garden hose in the top of the radiator flush it real good, reconnect the bottom hose, and refill the system.
What tools will I need?
What is the capacity of the system (how many gallons)?
What is a good ratio (50 -50? I do live in warm So Cal )?
What is the recommended brand of coolant (anything in particular)?
Thanks for the help guys
#2
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You'll only need basic hand tools.
I think its 30 quarts, so 7.5 gallons (someone correct me if I'm wrong, been a while)
50-50 is the correct ratio to use.
Any quality coolant will do, no Dex-Cool, not compatible with green coolant.
Also, please make sure you properly dispose of the used coolant.
Good luck!
-Dave
I think its 30 quarts, so 7.5 gallons (someone correct me if I'm wrong, been a while)
50-50 is the correct ratio to use.
Any quality coolant will do, no Dex-Cool, not compatible with green coolant.
Also, please make sure you properly dispose of the used coolant.
Good luck!
-Dave
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I forgot to add that you may want to also tap into one of the heater hoses, to clean out the heater core and engine block as well as the radiator. I'd use a few 5 gallon buckets to catch the old coolant, a small "kiddie" swimming pool works well too, but makes it harder to dispose of the used coolant.
-Dave
-Dave
#4
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If you're using the green colored coolant, the change interval is 30,000 miles. Also, when you drain the engine by disconnecting the lower radiator hose, you should jack up the rear of the truck (or park it slightly downhill in the front) until the engine is level.
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Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it.
I have a bunch of 5 gallon buckets that I will use for the job. Will my local auto parts take and recycle my old coolant?
I have a bunch of 5 gallon buckets that I will use for the job. Will my local auto parts take and recycle my old coolant?
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So I see in the book that it hold 7 gallons, but today when I was filling the rad back up its only taken 4-1/2 gallons including the overflow, maybe I have to get it real hot before it will take more??
#9
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Heres a nifty trick I came up with.
Take the top hose off and pop the thermostat housing off too, remove thermostat, replace thermostat housing, be careful not to damage the gasket. Now reverse the top hose and point the long end over the grill. Be ready with a catch bucket. Also take the radiator cap off.
What I did was let the water pump do the work. I would start the engine and let the water pump pump coolant out of the upper hose while having a garden hose keep the radiator full. Remember the flow path. The water pump draws water from the radiator via the lower hose, then circulates through the block, then out the thermostat and into the radiator via the upper hose. I did that and until the flush water was clear and non-frothy. Then I drained the block and radiator, and blew out the heater core too. I then refilled the system with a 50-50 mix of distilled water and Fleetguard ES Compleat diesel coolant. That is the same Fleetguard that makes our filters, they also make coolant, and it is dyed a very nice shade of blue, no more nuclear green.
Take the top hose off and pop the thermostat housing off too, remove thermostat, replace thermostat housing, be careful not to damage the gasket. Now reverse the top hose and point the long end over the grill. Be ready with a catch bucket. Also take the radiator cap off.
What I did was let the water pump do the work. I would start the engine and let the water pump pump coolant out of the upper hose while having a garden hose keep the radiator full. Remember the flow path. The water pump draws water from the radiator via the lower hose, then circulates through the block, then out the thermostat and into the radiator via the upper hose. I did that and until the flush water was clear and non-frothy. Then I drained the block and radiator, and blew out the heater core too. I then refilled the system with a 50-50 mix of distilled water and Fleetguard ES Compleat diesel coolant. That is the same Fleetguard that makes our filters, they also make coolant, and it is dyed a very nice shade of blue, no more nuclear green.
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Correct me if I'm wrong.
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You are correct, there is no block drain. But, the radiator drain is lower than the block, and the lower hose is a downhill run. So most if not all of the block is drained that way.
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I flushed mine a year ago or so with Fleetguard ES Optimax (pre-diluted). I bought 6 gallons, but only ended up using 4.5 or so. I used one of the hose attachements thru the heater core lines. My stuff was red.