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Died AGAIN

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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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From: Modesto, CA
Died AGAIN

Before I had realized that the fuel gauge was off. That time the truck completely died. (Running one second, engine not running the next.) This time I was doing 65mph, and it lost power and had no throttle response. It stayed running until the rpm's wound down and it stopped. Earlier this morning my girl friend had to give me a jump start, so I thought maybe the alternator. Removed it...had it tested 3 times and it passed 3 times. I'm at a loss here. I'm dreading what it might be....are there any theories?

Thanks,
Rocky
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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sounds like your IP or LP went out on you. could also check your fuel filter, that may help
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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I just changed the fuel filter a few weeks ago when I changed the oil...injector pump or lift pump huh? Lift pump sounds so much better...
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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Bump the key without starting & listen to hear the lift pump run. If you don't hear it then your lift pump is DOA. If thats the case I hope you caught it before the injection pump went south. You can also turn the key on & off 3 times then leave it on & check for any codes on the odometer.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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Thanks I do remember seeing a list of the codes too.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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Sorry to say, but it's probably your IP that has failed. My dually did the same when the VP died on me.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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Sounds like the injection pump to me. I just had the same thing not too long ago.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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ya check for the lift pump for sure before assuming it was the IP though. hopefully save some money. could also check pre-filter screens?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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I hate to say it but it sounds like a vp to me.
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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just a point on the alternator being tested 3 times, when it acts up again go check the grids as they can and do stick on, when it does it will draw down the alternator pretty quick, grids suck 90amps each, alt is only 140amp. you can unhook the main wiring to the grids right at the drv side battery, (2 smaller wires joined at one eyelet)

do a search using my user name and key words like "ford starter relay"
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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So here's where I've got so far.
I swapped out both batteries, and the truck will start. There is, however, zero throttle response and the idle is maybe 300 rpm...ROUGH. I did not hear the hum of the LP...Are there any other ideas with the new input? Still pump(s)? I may just swap them both out, with a package deal through thorougbreddiesel.com. I just don't want to spend the 1300 if it could probably be something else.
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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Gauges.....what is your fuel pressure at idle.... you need gauge. Hope its just your L.P and not your V.P........
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Yeah one of the things I want but always think it's too expensive right now...it would really help to have it!!
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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actually after re-reading your post....
you must verify fuel pressure and pull codes, cause wwithout knowing either one you might as well throw away your money!
And you need to clarify is it a battery going dead issue or a stuck wont start issue, truck wont run well if there is a voltage issue present

you just cant change parts because some guys say that it sounds like what happened to them

BTW a fuel pressure gauge can be installed for cheap (mechanical one) and it is invaluable for diagnostic purposes
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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I just replaced both batteries...the truck starts but has a really low and rough idle and a dead throttle. The odometer code I pulled up is p1693.
As far as voltage I have plenty of battery and the alternator is good. What I'm not sure of is the voltage regulator fixed to the alternator?
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