I became a 24v owner in December. I subsequently found this forum and have benefited greatly from the wealth of knowledge; and burden to my wallet identified in my signature from the must do's. Has anyone consolidated a list of Preventive Maintenance (PM) that should be done that would effect performance without showing a code, when purchasing a used vehicle such a s mine (Just trying to baseline my vehicle to get the most out of it). Things I have seen :
Filters, fluides, etc.
Clean the IAT Sensor
Reset the APPs sensor
Adjust APPs voltage

Does anyone have any other items?

 

You are pretty well covered with the standard additions. I'd say put some $$$ away for the eventual VP-44 replacement. Even with the upgraded fuel supply system it still can happen and at $1000 or so it can sting the pocket book. So far mine is at $.06 per mile. If you toss a $20 bill in the envelope every time you fill up, you'd be covered rather quickly and it wouldn't hurt so bad.

You probably could do some inspection on the front end, brakes, tie rod, track bar, brake lines etc. If you can catch them before failure it will help keep costs down and save a break down onthe road.

 

Thanks Bentwings for the input. Already done with the additional basics mentioned. As for your sig, I prefer "the volumetric capacity of the cup is not fully optimized" couldn't resist.

 

How can I do these 3 maintenance job??
Clean the IAT Sensor
Reset the APPs sensor
Adjust APPs voltage

 

Here are the links that found on the site for these

AIT Sensor https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=191633
APPs Reset https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
APPs Voltage https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1


Hope this helps

 

I forgot to add change the fan belt and inspect the idler.
Also relocate the oil breather so you don't get a radiator full of gunk.
Carry a spare full filter maybe 2 and the tools to change them.

 

The belt was one of the first inspections, and yes it was pretty bad. Can you elaborate on the relocation of the oil breather. I did notice a small plastic bottle mounted to the front of the engine with a hose in the top, is that it?

 

That's it. Most run the hose back anywhere away from the radiator. I thought I was immune to this. You I never get sick. haha You should have seen my radiator after the cottonwoods got done with it. I had a heck of a time cleaning it without pulling it.

Some guys get real ellaborate with it with PVC pipe etc. I just extended the hose and tie wrapped it back a couple feet. I blow carwash spray up under the motor every wash so it's pretty clean now.

 

I started this thread so I could gain a better understanding of my truck and what should be done to "re-baseline" a used truck after purchase. Here is my story, and I am sticking to it.
1. Found this forum, what a life saver, or VP-44 saver in my case
2. Installed the gauges in my sig, discovered marginal lift pump pressure
3. Installed FP-150 Airdog system, rock steady 15-17 psi life is good.
4. Inspected the hoses, belts, breaks and other such necessities and replaced the serpentine belt, yup it was original and cracked, Idler pulley still in good shape.
5. cleaned the IAT sensor that was very gunked (technical term) up.
6. Reset the APPS sensor
7. Adjusted the valves (I have a new truck) that were all out of range at 98K.

next weekend is front end inspection. Let just hope the ball joint gods are looking favorably on me.

This is a great forum, with some very knowledgeable folks. Thanks all for my indoctrination.

 

Air filter (you might consider going to a BHAF), tranny ,transfer case and axle oils.
These are also quite relevant for the fuel mileage- and don't forget tire pressure. This is the cheapest to fix, most overlooked reason for suboptimal mileage.

AlpineRAM

 

Now you have me thinking.
My 24V is at 150 and I haven't adjusted the valves. Someone told me that they don't really move much.... SO now that you have burst my bubble, I'm all worried about it. I've got an auto...so I've got no idea how to rotate the motor crankshaft while setting the valve lash. I wish I had a standard tranny.

So, where is the easiest place to explain how to do this. I've never done a diesel before. Just gas ones. I guess I should do my 93 while I am at it.
THanx,
Puke

 

Turning the engine is easy. Simply use a ratchet on the nut at the front of the alternator. This method will only allow the engine to turn backwards, but it works well.

 

It was easy and the procedure works for both Manual and Auto. The only deviation from what was presented was my use of the starter motor to get the alignment close and then using the alternator for fine adjustment. Trying to rotate the engine using the alternator on a compression stroke is not fun. There are some good reference materials at the link at the top of the page "Tech Facts" or use the one I provided.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

Some of my other favorites are:
Change PS fluid with good SYN fluid
Change brake fluid. New in reseivor, hose on bleeder. Push out till clean on each wheel.
Change diff lube with SYN gear oil.
Check U-joints and center support bearing.
Clean and tighten battery cables.
Inspect wiring for chaffing.
Clean bed and touch up with matching spray paint.
Lube door hinges and tailgate latches.
Replace wiper blades
Detail and wax vehicle
Take care of oil leaks. Try tighten bolts.
Freshen up coolant and make sure adequate freeze level.
Make a list and try doing one or two at a time. They go fast. Well some of them. Don/t forget oil and filter changes with good oil of choice.