As far as it being intermittent, well, I can't drive it over 25mph and barely keep it running at idle then. It's dead 99% of when it is running in the driveway, I can't even take it anywhere without towing.

VP is puttin out 12-14 at idle and no lower then 9 at wot, so why would it be vp, could it just be the computer on the vp? Why would a dealer just flat out tell me they would just throw parts at it if they advertise they work on cummins diesels?

Guess I am just agrivated with this and no-one seems to have answers except buy a new vp.

Cory

 

I got 50 miles from the dealership after I bought my truck and the VP44 died. I brought it back told them pretty much the same thing. After a few calls when I got home I found out it was the VP44. So I figured I'd see what they had to say the next day, they told me the lift pump and injection pump were bad, so they ate the whole works. Then delivered it to my house 3 hours away. Don't lose all hope in dealerships.

 

don't get me wrong, they ain't all bad. But when they want to charge $75-90 an hour to "diagnosis" a problem by replacing perfectly good parts just to see if it works irks me. Getting called an idiot by someone who doesn't know the full story irks me.


If I could find a dealer who doesn't automatically want me to buy a new vp and lift pump before the service paperwork is even filled out then I would have more faith in them.

Cory

 

Well if it fired you up enough to start spillin the rest of the details I guess it worked.....and yes it does suck for everyone involved on an issue like that. To clear something else up, was the truck you borrowed the part from similar year and equipped as yours? Probably a "stupid" question, but one worthy of asking.

....and if it is indeed running as poorly as you speak of "most of the time" as you stated it should be a decent one to diagnose. Would be interesting to see the map reading on the scan tool.


....and if it's the "electronics" on the pump, which it seems to be quite a bit, you get that with a new pump, not separately.

 

Yeah it fired me up a little but oh, no big deal, here's the details.

I was driving to work abotu 11 miles, the truck kinda stuttered a little taking off at a redlight, then again at the next, then it just went dead, straight to idle, ran rough and engine light came on. I was able to limp it home. I use the key method to find the codes. Got the following:, P1693, P0122, P0236, P0522. Well I check every thing and immediately remove the Edge EZ. I tried the battery disconnect apps reset. I even used the voltmeter recalibration method. Still wouldn't run right nor really even get driveable. I got an apps off of a 2001 HO 6spd with 65k on it that was running and showing no codes at time of removal. swapped it out and even did the reset again and got the voltage just right. Still ran horrible. Codes P0122 and P0236 just kept coming back. I checked all the connections I could find. Mad sure everything is clean and tight. I hook the fuel pressure gauge directily to the VP44, remving isolator and ran it to make sure I wasn't getting any false readings or anything. 12-14psi at idle and no less then 9.5 at wot (or as best it will get while running this bad). This vp only has about 40k miles on it, as well as the lp. I understand that they could easily go out at those mileage numbers or even less, but am getting good pressure numbers. I talked to a couple people, including our local Cummins dealership who knew alot about the problem but said it is mainly dodges electric to blame. I talked to a supposid Dodge dealership who advertises the cummins and having techs to work on them, only for them to say it has to co to Cummins as they don't have diesel mechanics, I then talk to a big dealer in our area that does a lot of cummins work and they are the ones who said that they will replace the vp (on my $$) whether it is bad or not first, then do a whole new engine wiring harness (again on my $$), then the ECM. I asked if the ECM could be reflashed or if the wiring could be checked out before replacing and they said it ain't worth their time. I asked about hooking it up to a diagnostics machine and he didnt' act like it would tell them anything.

I don't have a disposable income, I don't have multiple vehicles to just pick and choose what I drive, i need this thing bad and can't afford for a dealer to just start throwing my money at a problem instead of actually trying to figure it out. If it is the vp44's elecs, then yeah replace it, but don't just replace parts to replace parts.

Cory

 

HO8...if they cleared the codes on the recent visit and the p0216 came back that would have been enough for me to put a VP on your truck. I'd call around and see if you can't talk to a CTD tech somewhere that agrees with the outcome of the diag that has already taken place.

FM3311....an apps off of a manual 01 would be the same part number. Auto trucks are different.

 

FM3311....an apps off of a manual 01 would be the same part number. Auto trucks are different


?????? what do you mean, both mine and the other donar where 01 ho 6spds.

Cory

 

.....just making sure the "donor" truck wasn't an auto equipped truck. The APPS for the 2001 5spd etc and 6spd eth are the same part #. Auto is different.

 

gotcha.

I went a little deeper into the details. Any ideas?

Cory

 

Interesting......all sensors involved with the codes you pulled all have a 5volt signal from the ecm. They don't share a common circuit, but utilize 5 volt supply (might be the same supply internally, i'm not sure). Would be good info to see if all the codes were set at the same time (drb shows ign counts). Some codes you pull up using the "key on/off" method are old stored erronious dtcs.

If the engine is running bad try "wiggling" the harness from the ECM at different points and see if anything changes, it also may be worthwile to monitor the 5 volt supply to the APPS with a DVOM.

 

yeah, the voltage is good (apps), when key on but not started, it was around 408 or something but it was suppose to be around 562 so i adjusted it to the right level. then if pedal was cycled through the voltage would go up with it.

I did get it to a diesel shop this morning, hopefully I will get some good news.

Cory

 

I can't believe your already talking about a lawsuit.
From your first post, you did not tell them codes you already had (playing dumb) That's not going to help them or you. Then your saying how the dealer and the techs are idiots. Why don't you fix it yourself if your so smart?
I used to work at a dealership and sometimes things aren't what they seem.
These guys work on different trucks all day everyday. Some are sharp and some aren't. The worst is getting a smartass customer that holds info on a modded truck and expects honesty in return.
Good thing your running your mouth on here instead of the shop. You could have some new problems that you'd never find.
Lawsuit...real class act.

 

I PROMISE!! I'm not using two screen names. daysel is someone else.

.....and the manual is a corporate deal and won't be handled at the dealer level so don't go cryin about how dealer "A" won't honor you book that you twisted an interpretation in.

 

On the warranty, my understaning is, this dodge will take care of anything cummins related till 36k, the for the remaining 74k cummins picks it up. So basically dodge is doing cummins work for the first 36k of cummins's warranty. I don't think anyone could get a judge to say cummins will honor up to 136k miles, no matter how sleazy the lawyer.

Cory

 

....actually FM, DC buys the engine assy's from cummins just like any other part from a supplier. DC provides the warranty, not cummins.


.....I'm betting there is a big red X on a calander somewhere at DC with the last date of the last truck they have to warranty a VP on. They took a beating on that one.