I drained the water off and it seems to help. I didn't find any water in the drainage, but who knows? Anyway, I now have the 1 1/8" socket for the filter top, so I will change it tonight.

Justin

 

Justin I think canucktrucks may have your problem nailed. I had this same thing happen as you mentioned in a gasser engine with injectors. The problem was a leak down in the fuel pump and it lost prime. It had to suck the air up and get fuel again before it started. Then it would run fine and start as long as I didn't let it sit. The dealer put on a new pump and no more starting problems. I think a diesel with an air mix problem would run real bad until the mix got right again. I don't think I helped you here but the pump will act like that. best of luck to you

 

Hey everyone, Glad to know this helped! I would check all other possibilites in this situation first. It is very possible that after sitting when it was so cold, the fuel may have froze and messed a valve up , let the truck sit and try and drain the filter . see if you still get as much fuel. If it was air in the fuel ,you would have a very bad full rpm range miss. If you drained the fuel and it helped its most likely a filter , it dosent seem like a loss of prime problem , if it was a prime problem you wouldnt see a change after draining fuel. Let us know,

 

Well, that hard starting is gone after a filter change and a fresh fill-up.

Want any eye-opener? Try letting that little Carter run with an open outlet! That thing moves a LOT of fuel for a little pump.

I never had any problems besides starting. Once it started, it always ran fine.

That's why I believed it to be a filter issue. So far, I think that was the case.

Now, I just need to get my fuel delivery ironed out. The Wildcat Fuel fittings are going in soon.

Justin

 

Hope we've all helped! Glad to see you've got your issue fixed without more extensive problems! Have a great and happy new year!

 

I just got my Wildcat Max Flow System delivered to the door yesterday. I got scheduled for my install at Scheid's next week.

I need me some new batteries....

Matt

 

I would think you could DIY an install of the Wildcat system pretty easily.....

 

I've Never done one , but for the most part all the fuel system is pretty simple, (up to the injector pump.) I would see no reason why you couldnt do it with some simple hand tools and Mechanical knowledge. Just make sure to do it right the first time and re check all the fittings, and keep lines away from wear points and hot places

 

Having never done one before I am a little leary, especially considering the price quote I got.

Don't get me wrong, I am a DIY kinda guy for the most part.

I will post a new topic with results once it is all done.

Matt

 

Just remember guys, You can do anything you put your mind to! I was 16 with a Cisco Systems Certification working for a IS Department at a hospital. Im not bragging , just saying if you decide you can do it and set your mind to it, theres nothing to hard to accomplish! If you look at it as it will be hard or get frustrated, it will be a horrible task and take forever yes, i know , off topic.....real bad like, but just a thought that ran through my head . please dont take this as Bragging or B*tchin

 

12 and 24V pumps are not transferable

12V pumps operate at 30+PSI, and run off the cam, increasing pressure as RPM rises.

The 24V pumps are turned on by the ECM (The LP thinks the ECM is sexy), and they run a constant speed except when they are throttled during startup.

Those symptoms were awful close to a bad pump.

Merrick

 

Yeah, Merrick I was worried! The only thing that kept me from freaking was the fact that it ran fine, just didn't want to start.

Now it starts right away-- hot or cold, no matter how long it's been sitting.

I am redoing my whole fuel delivery setup. When I installed my Fitch system, I ran a LOT of hose (3 ft+) and this is plumbed in between the filter and the VP.

When the max-flow fittings get here, I am going to do this right.

I am getting to used to the power level. My truck feels gutless all the time now. I need a PMAX comp.

Justin

 

UPDATE!


The hard starting is back with a vengeance. The max-flow kit is installed, and after fixing a small leak, everything appears fine.

Fuel pressure is 2-5 at startup. Then it races to 17-18. Somehow I am losing the prime to the system. Someone mentioned a check valve.... IS THERE A CHECK VALVE THAT COULD BE STICKING OPEN???

My fuel pressure falls slowly at shutdown. Should it fall at all? I can't see any leaks now.

Since I put in the Max-flow, it takes a little less cranking to get it primed again. BUT it still doesn't start like it should.

Everything else but the starting is perfect!

How did a fuel filter change temporarily "fix" my starting problem?? Do I need to do another filter change?

Surely if it was a bad load of fuel I would have noticed it right after filling up.

Read my lead post and you'll see that this problem started right after the truck sat for 10 days. The fuel in that tankful had given no problems for 300 miles, then all of a sudden it's not starting properly!!

This is extremely aggravating, not to mention embarassing.


Justin

 

Rather than cranking the engine to restore fuel pressure, try just "bumping" the key to the start position without really cranking the engine. This should trigger the lift pump to run for a few seconds and restore the prime. If you have the radio turned off, you can hear the lift pump running. If it doesn't fully restore the fuel pressure, bump it again and run the lift pump for another cycle. Then crank the engine as normal.

I know this is a treatment to the symptom, but it is far less embarassing and eaiser on the engine than cranking and cranking.

 

Even if I do as you recommend, it still takes quite a bit of cranking to get the air through the system.

It's like trying to prime it after you change the fuel filter. Only it's like I changed the filter every time it sits for more than 10 minutes or so.

Justin