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Checklist For After I buy A "New" Cummins?

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Old 08-29-2006, 05:48 PM
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Checklist For After I buy A "New" Cummins?

Hey guys, what I am looking for is a checklist of things that I would start to replace/check/work on AFTER I buy a used (hopefully 01 or 02 Dodge Diesel). I will of course take it to a mechanic to get a bumper to bumper, but other than guages, what things would I want to change to be safe/smart? I am NOT talking about mods like exhuast or chips, but more like fuel/air filters, etc.

Pretend you are explaining this to a 6 year old as I am a moron when it comes to engine and mechanical talk.

FYI, I did do a search and looked under the FAQ's but no luck there.

THANKS!
Old 08-29-2006, 06:09 PM
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Take a trip to Geno's Garage and pick u up some good filters, like Fleetguard. Get their oil (Stratapour) filter and a normal fuel filter. Since you are there I would get your hands on an upgraded oil drain plug. Dont skimp on these things because these will save your trucks life. If you get an auto you might want to invest in a Mag-tech pan for better cooling and added oil capiticy. There is so much you can do! Welcome to the addiction
Old 08-29-2006, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mgstroker95
Take a trip to Geno's Garage and pick u up some good filters, like Fleetguard. Get their oil (Stratapour) filter and a normal fuel filter. Since you are there I would get your hands on an upgraded oil drain plug. Dont skimp on these things because these will save your trucks life. If you get an auto you might want to invest in a Mag-tech pan for better cooling and added oil capiticy. There is so much you can do! Welcome to the addiction
Hey thanks. If you don't mind, can you explain why I would want a oil drain plug? I have a friend that is part owner of an oil change place, so I just go to him and get the oil change and service for the price of the oil. Not a bad deal, so if it will help him out then I'll do it.

Yes I will be getting an auto.
Old 08-29-2006, 07:17 PM
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He'll appreciate how easy you just made his life. All it takes is a turn of the wrist & the oil is flowing in the pan & not down your arm.
Old 08-29-2006, 07:19 PM
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I'd start by changing out ALL of the fluids first - tranny, diff's, oil, & coolant. Even if they say it was changed, more than likely they are trying to get their truck sold. Make sure you look the fluids over closely to see if there are any particles in them so you know if there is an existing problem that nobody caught during the inspection.
Old 08-29-2006, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by carcrz
I'd start by changing out ALL of the fluids first - tranny, diff's, oil, & coolant. Even if they say it was changed, more than likely they are trying to get their truck sold. Make sure you look the fluids over closely to see if there are any particles in them so you know if there is an existing problem that nobody caught during the inspection.
Right, good point with regard to the fluids and I will of course do that as well as "feel" the fluids before I even drive it looking for any metal or odd smells or discolorations. Before I ever take a truck to a mechanic, I of course go meet the guy and test drive the truck. I always ask them to meet me first thing in the morning, and ask that they don't start the truck until I get there as I want to hear and see it start cold. I then drive by about 30 minutes early and sit far enough away and watch the truck to see if they do as I have asked. I caught one guy a few years back run out and start the truck about 20 minutes before I was going to arrive to look at it and tons of blue smoke came spewing out of the tailpipe. I then called his house on my cell and told him I was sitting across the street and asked him why he ran out and started the truck when I speciaifcally asked him not to do that. He of course started swearing at me and hung up, then ran out and flipped me off as I drove away thanking the good lord for allowing me to see that dishonest act. I hate guys like that, but I have to cover my own butt. Thanks for the replies guys, this is a big help!
Old 08-29-2006, 07:50 PM
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Quote
"I have a friend that is part owner of an oil change place, so I just go to him and get the oil change and service for the price of the oil."

Don't let him just give you the house oil because you can get a good deal.
You must use a qualified diesel oil.
Read about 'Dino' oil for Dinosaur, meaning been around for ever. And then there are synthetic oils.
Old 08-29-2006, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by new2ctd
Quote
"I have a friend that is part owner of an oil change place, so I just go to him and get the oil change and service for the price of the oil."

Don't let him just give you the house oil because you can get a good deal.
You must use a qualified diesel oil.
Read about 'Dino' oil for Dinosaur, meaning been around for ever. And then there are synthetic oils.
good point but currently I drive a gasser *hangs head in shame* but I get the good stuff, not the "house" oil, and he has asured me I can get whatever I want, even bring my own oil in if I want. I was just going to use rotella; is that ok?

WHich brings up a question. Whats this purple fluid line I keep hearing about? Supposed to be good stuff I guess, is that a gasser of diesel thing?
Old 08-29-2006, 08:32 PM
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I have always used Rotella in everything I've owned. I just started taking a walk on the wild side fairly recently. You simply cannot go wrong with Rotella.
But I will throw some others out there that have equally good standings.
Chevron Delo
Mobil Delvac
Valvoline Premium Blue

You are asking about Royal Purple. I've used in for many years too in our Powerstrokes and lawnmowers and such. I stopped short in the Cummins becuase I was told that it didn't have the soot something or another.....
But it is in my Tranny and rear ends on all of my trucks.
www.royalpurple.com We have an old cemetery (gas) truck with 400k miles on RP
Old 08-29-2006, 08:45 PM
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Make sure when you have your mechanic inspect the new truck, that he check for any stored codes. If he doesnt have an OBDII reader, SHAME ON HIM! So have him turn the key on and off three times and see if there are any codes stored. If you see the dreaded P0216, run like HECK!
Old 08-29-2006, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SkyKing56
Make sure when you have your mechanic inspect the new truck, that he check for any stored codes. If he doesnt have an OBDII reader, SHAME ON HIM! So have him turn the key on and off three times and see if there are any codes stored. If you see the dreaded P0216, run like HECK!

thanks for the reply. WHat does the freaded PO216 code mean?
Old 08-29-2006, 10:17 PM
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It means you owe your dealership about $1600 for a new fuel injection pump.
Old 08-30-2006, 03:13 AM
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cool wow a truck

might wanna start looking for prices on those injection pumps. didnt you say you just got a new CTD. then ya
Old 08-30-2006, 03:17 AM
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CTD lit

My 01 runs perfect but I still read the mishap post everyday and have really familiarized myself with the CTD and the vp44.
kinda intresting a bit.
just start reading anything and everything in the 2nd gen.
Old 08-30-2006, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by carcrz
I'd start by changing out ALL of the fluids first - tranny, diff's, oil, & coolant. Even if they say it was changed, more than likely they are trying to get their truck sold. Make sure you look the fluids over closely to see if there are any particles in them so you know if there is an existing problem that nobody caught during the inspection.
Kinda of curious, I have a 98 12V AT,I was gonna have my Tranny serviced, problem is no one will touch it with 10 foot pole. Mind you I got my truck about 4 months ago.I am the 3rd Owner. Don't know when the last service was on the truck that's why they won't touch it.I called 5 different places and they told me that the old type fluid has coated all the seals and if you put the new type fluids in you could have major problems with the seals and it could start slipping.


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