Had a note fom my brother -his lift pump failed a little after 100000 miles so $234 later, on the way home -- the truck quit, he had it towed to shop and verdict is-- they THINK it needs an injection pump now, for an additional $1700. He was only a couple of thousand over the magic number, so it is all on his nickle. So I got busy + checked mine with an old air conditioning thing I had laying around and ---no pressure --well 4-5lb. The ******* of course had to check it themselves They found no pressure at load . So now its sittin an a waitin for a pump. (why don't they stock these things ?) CHECK THOSE LIFT PUMPS FELLAS ! ! !

 

Better yet, install a fuel pressure guage so you can see what's happening in real time.

 

Now would be a great time to get a "Briar Hopper Fuel Pressure Gauge". It comes Complete with everything you need for your year truck, and instructions...Even better the kit is on sale!!! Call for prices and more info (859) 234 3111. ;D ;D ;D

 

Welcome "Noobie"

 

got a question, is the lift pump part of the enjection pump or are they seperate from each other?<br><br>thanks

 

[quote author=david h link=board=4;threadid=11479;start=0#109071 date=1046215938]
got a question, is the lift pump part of the enjection pump or are they seperate from each other?

thanks
[/quote]

They are seperate entities.

Lift pump is on drivers side of engine, about midway.
Kinda underneath the fuel filter cannister.

It &quot;lifts&quot; fuel from the tank to the injection pump, hence its name.

Injection pump is on drivers side as well, right near the front of the engine.

phox

 

[quote author=david h link=board=4;threadid=11479;start=0#109071 date=1046215938]<br>got a question, is the lift pump part of the enjection pump or are they seperate from each other?<br><br>thanks<br>[/quote]<br><br>They are 2 different items....

 

This is from Dave Fritz's site at www.dodgeram.org
It's a '99 but it'll give you an idea of the parts and their locations.


1. Fuel Transfer (Lift) Pump
2. Fuel Return Line (to Fuel Tank)
3. Fuel Supply Line (Low Pressure, to Engine)
4. Fuel Heater
5. Water-in-Fuel (WIF) Sensor
6. Fuel FilterlWater Separator
7. IAT Sensor
8. Map (Boost) Sensor
9. Fuel Drain Manifold
10. CKP Sensor
11. CMP Sensor
12. Overflow Valve
13. Drain Valve
14. Fuel Pressure Test Potts
15. ECM
16. ECT Sensor
17. Fuel Injection Pump
18. Throttle Lever Bell Crank and Apps
19, High-Pressure Fuel Lines
20. Fuel Injectors
21. Fuel Heater Temperature Sensor (Thermostat)
22. Oil Pressure Sensor
23. Fuel Injector Connector
24. Drain Tube
25. Intake Manifold Air Heater/Elements

 

I got rid of the lift pump. Put on the Holley Black. 16 at idle and 13 at WOT. ;D

 

I ordered a new fuel pressure gauge form Geno's 2weeks ago and it's still on backorder. :'(<br><br>I still got my Briar Hopper Test Gauge though and it works great for those quick checks at oil changes. 8)<br><br>DB

 

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=4;threadid=11479;start=0#109200 date=1046236396]
I got rid of the lift pump. Put on the Holley Black. 16 at idle and 13 at WOT. ;D
[/quote]

I'm seeing that with my 1st replacement lift pump and Banjo Bolts.

 

I run dual carter replacement pumps (P4600HP 7 psi, P4601HP 15 psi) with 3/8 SS lines. I also run dual fuel pressure gages. But this didn’t stop the lift pump going out, again. I got 11 months on the first set of carters before they went south ( I live in the north). I am working on the 3rd set. I took a look inside to find out just what went bad, to my surprises I found out. It was not the motor, or the rotor vain (the pump). It was the nylon bushing that connects the two shafts between them. The motor had more than enough power to rotate the shaft, where I think the problem lies is in the viscosity of diesel at –10 deg F. It appeared to be too much for that bushing and the slot wore out at less than 12,000 miles and would no longer engage the shaft to rotate the pump. Both of my pump problems have been in the winter. If carter which makes the OEM lift pump put a steel bushing in the pump a lot of problems would have not happened. Or maybe they would have. I think that the bushing will ware out anyway it is just a matter if time. Like I said the problem is enhanced when the viscosity of diesel at –10 deg F. is to great for the plastic bushing. By the way when the lift pump does go, it could starve the VP-44 of its lubricity hence the need for a VP-44. :'( OverFueled

 

[quote author=Shovelhead link=board=4;threadid=11479;start=0#109262 date=1046259839]<br>[quote author=BigBlue link=board=4;threadid=11479;start=0#109200 date=1046236396]<br>I got rid of the lift pump. Put on the Holley Black. 16 at idle and 13 at WOT. ;D<br>[/quote]<br><br>I'm seeing that with my 1st replacement lift pump and Banjp Bolts. <br>[/quote]<br><br>With my first new lift pump and banjos, I saw 13idle and 6 WOT comp off. The above pressures were with pump wire hooked up and on 3x3.

 

Just got my Briar Hopper kit in the mail this week. Checked mine on my stock '02 after 18k and am still getting 13psi at idle. ;D ;D ;D I need to tape it to the windshield to see what I am getting cruise and WOT.<br><br>I can highly recommend Black Mountain Diesel. Called on Friday and got the package on Tuesday.<br><br>Thank you Black Mountain Diesel.

 

Hey all,<br><br>I would fix your fuel problem for good (We think), with a Produnct Engineering 4200, 1/2&quot; stanpipe in the tank, 1/2&quot; lines from tank to the fuel filter canister, and leave the 3/8&quot; line between the canister and the VP44....eliminating all the banjos! Walla.....hence no more fuel pressure problems. Also a fuel pressure gauge is a must.<br><br>