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Check Engine Light and Loss of Power

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Old 03-07-2005, 08:27 PM
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Check Engine Light and Loss of Power

Just purchased a 1998 24v this past week and having my first problem.
I had a sudden loss of power and the check engine light came on. It would idle only and not excelerate. I acts like limp mode. Then a few seconds later the normal power was back and I cou speed back up to speed. Then again I lost power and it would only idle. Parked it and came back an hour later to try and drive it back home and it did the same thing.
I am brand new to the sight so I am still searching for my answer. If anyone knows what it could be,or where I can find my answer.
Could it be a clogged fuel filter? but then if it was a clogged filter wouldnt it start to get sluggish and not just go to idle and stay at idle no matter what?
Thanks for any help
Old 03-07-2005, 08:37 PM
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Sounds kinda like an APPS. Have you had the codes pulled yet?
Old 03-07-2005, 08:41 PM
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What is APPS and I dont have the program for my lap top like I do for VWs "Vag-Com. How and where do I get the programs for the Dodge Diesel? Is there another way to get the fault code?
Old 03-07-2005, 08:49 PM
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I had a '99 CDT that did the same exact thing. It was my fuel filter. It doesn't cost anything to check it and since you just bought the truck, change it. There is no telling how old it is. I got some vary nasty fuel out of a truck stop and my fuel filter was full of sludge. It looked like old transfer case oil! I'd try the easy things first. Next I'd check the fuel pressure from the transfer pump.
Old 03-07-2005, 09:25 PM
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Start with the fuel filter as 4x4 suggested then if it persists get the codes following my suggestion.

Make buddies in the service dept at the dealer and they will almost always hook up the DRB scan tool and give you the DTC's no charge. I've done it in Grants Pass, Oregon Kingman, AZ Logan, WV and of course here at home in rust belt Cleveland, OH.

I had a similar problem and it spit three codes...

1) CKP (Crank Position Sensor) 2) ECM 3) VP44

Luckily the CKP was the problem. It's a ***** to successfully remove if you're in a corrosive environment.

The CKP sends a signal to the ECM and the ECM uses that information to control the VP44.

APPS is Accellerator Pedal Position System.

Hope this is enough to get you started.
Old 03-07-2005, 09:38 PM
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Did you floor the go pedal several times before she came back to life??? Yes, Then it's the apps for sure, went thru this for 2 years, my check engine light bulb finally burned out. Get the codes checked to be sure, this part is not cheap!
Old 03-07-2005, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the information. I just went out and drained some fuel from the filter and it seemed clean but I am not sure that its possible to tell without not changing it. I will get one tomorrow and swap it out.

I tried to adjust the idle down some today by turning the stop screw on the throttle linkage plate but it didnt change anything.

How do I adjust the idle down?

It seems to be idleing way to high. You dont think that changing the stop screw at idle would have created the power loss? I wouldnt think so.
Old 03-07-2005, 09:50 PM
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Ouch, that idle screw is a no touch adjustment. Better get it back where it was if you can. The engine should idle at 800 to 850. If it is higher that is another problem but I bet you thought it should be around 500, not so. I don't know this but that may be what messed up. You may have run it off the coil of the pot.

After you get it back where it was, shut it down, disconnect the negative post on both batteries. then turn the key on to the run position. Let it sit for 45 minutes or so. Then shut the key off, hook up the batteries. Go inside the truck, turn on the key to the run position (not start) and with you hand, gently push the throttle pedal to the floor and allow it to come back up slow. Slow both ways. Turn the key off. Now you have set the throttle electronics to properly index the engine. Start it up and see if that fixed it.

If not, go to autozone and have them read the codes, they will do it free. Write them down and it should tell you where the problem is.
Old 03-07-2005, 10:41 PM
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Well I will try to screw it back to the same position and try the reset in the morning.

I still would like to drop the idle. How can that be done. I think they sound better with a low idle.
Old 03-07-2005, 10:57 PM
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Cummins says that was done due to low oil pressure and non burning fuel at idle. Better stick with the 800, its made for that.
Old 03-08-2005, 02:26 AM
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Ok so how slow is slow? a 1 or 2 count to the bottom, and the same back up? Or even slower like count to 5??
Old 03-08-2005, 11:03 AM
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I guess four or five, slow, all the way down, then all the way up, steady and even. It sets the position of the pedal to the electronics.
Old 03-09-2005, 06:05 PM
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OK I tried the APPS reset and still have the problem. It was actually really hard to start this morning. It was a little cooler 55F, so I cycled the glow heater a couple of times but it took about a minute to get started. Drove it and didnt get a block and went back to idle and I just coasted home.
Whats next?
Fuel filter?
Transfer pump?
I am already getting a little fustrated
Old 03-09-2005, 06:36 PM
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Have you had the codes checked? Do you have a scan tool. If you knew what codes it was throwing that would be a big help. If the CEL is on there are definitely codes.

Still sounds like an APPS to me, but if it's hard to start could be your VP.

Hope not.
Old 03-09-2005, 10:16 PM
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Where can I get a scan tool? I cant even drive it to AutoZone for them to scan it.
If I know where to get one, I'll just go buy one tomorrow.


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