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Changing from intank pump to engine mounted

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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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shotgunslg's Avatar
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Changing from intank pump to engine mounted

I have an '02 that the dealer installed a new lift pump in the tank about a year ago. I have noticed a loss in power and checked fuel pressure 3psi@ idle and 0 psi @ WOT. My question is has anyone converted an intank system back to the original location, and if so how hard is it to do.
Thanks for the help
Mike
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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From: Colville,in beautifull Eastern (should be a state) Washington
L.p.

Have you changed the fuel filter recently ?
I would leave the pump in the tank & use it to supply a new pump mounted on the frame, either near the tank or in the engine compartment. Mounting one on the engine subjects it to vibration.
I'm running my original worn out carter, it supplies my new Airtech. I've got 15 PSI + at idle & at WOT.

Last edited by daveg; Dec 16, 2007 at 09:51 PM. Reason: spelling , while arguing with woman.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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I have been in the same situation. I added a holley blue in addition to keeping the intank pump. That lasted about 4 months and now my truck runs on just the holley. I installed a draw straw II to by pass the intank pump.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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From: Ormond Beach Fl 32176
My lift pump and VP44 were replaced at 87k by the dealer. and at the time I was worried about the low pressure to. I installed a Vulcan big line kit, and removed the dummy fuel block that they (the dealer) installed were the stock pump used to be.( the chief reason to do the vulcan kit is to eliminate the restrictive banjo bolts from the system.) I went from 3psi to 9 psi, and at WOT it went from 1psi to 7 psi. I am still watching it at 139k ,and it seems good. I installed a warning light for 5 psi and it only comes on when the engine is not running but the key is in the on position. It goes out when starter is engaged, and fuel pressure is established. My fuel pressure gauge is tapped into inlet of VP44. so that I know the pressure is at the injection pump. Note, I installed the Vulcan kit with in 100 miles after the in tank pump was installed
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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From: Linwood, NC
Once you get an intank job is is really expensive to go back I would say because you will have to drop the tank to put a new sending unit in it. I have the intank but I got two Carters sitting here on the desk, fixing to go to the local auto parts place here in a little bit to get all the fittings I need to piggyback my system. Note: Mopar replaced my lift pump under warranty so thats why I have the intank. If it was me I would have replaced the stock Carter or bought a FASS to begin with.

I have being doing research on piggybacking mine for awhile. I'm going to stay with the stock filter housing for one reason, fuel heater.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 02:53 AM
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From: Colville,in beautifull Eastern (should be a state) Washington
transfer pumps etc.

I dropped my tank because I thought there was a bunch of crud inside, what little I did find I got out with a shop vac, after rinsing the tank with some hot water. My point being...dropping the tank, once it was empty wasn't all that difficult. Loosen the tank strap bolts & lower the tank to the floor, or saw horses if using a lift. The tank is fairly lightweight plastic & relatively easy to handle.I managed to do it without assistance, help would have certainly made it easier.
I used a strap wrench to remove the threaded collar that holds the float assembly, screen, fuel suction tubes & the lift pump on those trucks so equiped. All that came out as a unit. Reassembly was just the reverse. I don't know how much the in-tank pump complicates all this. But I was surprised how "relatively" simple it was.
Ironbutt... I'd be concerned about loosing another injector pump if running too long with less than 10 PSI . daveg
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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From: Redding, California
Originally Posted by Adam3291
Once you get an intank job is is really expensive to go back I would say because you will have to drop the tank to put a new sending unit in it.
Not necessarily... when i installed my FASS i left the in-tank pump and sending unit in the tank and installed a new draw tube. You can just unplug the in-tank pump wire connector (located below fuel filter old stock position) or cut the wire. Beside if you ever want to go back to stock you can. I don't know about you but i'll lose parts if i take them out of the truck.
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