Block buying... maybe
I just bought (but haven't picked up) a really nicely set up '01. I paid somewhat less than 1/2 of Blue Book, knowing full well the engine is bad. (not a cracked 53, it broke under load with 50+lbs of boost). I will either be rebuilding this motor, or buying a block and building a new motor using many of the parts from the original. It comes down to a couple factors.
1.) The cost of a new block from Cummins.
2.) If the existing block is a '53'
3.) If the existing block needs boring.
I don't want to bore it if it's a '53', since that is potentially a bad investment.
Main question (finally, he gets to the point!) If I have to buy a new block, how do I get a specific block (Teksid? the Mexican one is what I want)
I know several on this forum have replaced blocks. What's a ballpark figure for a new one?
TIA
Jim
1.) The cost of a new block from Cummins.
2.) If the existing block is a '53'

3.) If the existing block needs boring.
I don't want to bore it if it's a '53', since that is potentially a bad investment.
Main question (finally, he gets to the point!) If I have to buy a new block, how do I get a specific block (Teksid? the Mexican one is what I want)
I know several on this forum have replaced blocks. What's a ballpark figure for a new one?
TIA
Jim
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
New block is way too much in my opinion with the number of avaliable engines out there and pieces on e-bay. Boring is allowable and even sleeving a damaged hole is acceptable. A complete Ohaul kit is sort of reasonable as have seen them at less than a $1,000. The 53 block issue has been blown way out of porporation to the number of problems encountered. Don't believe the 01 really has a 53 block issue, as was on earlier engines. If has not cracked by now, it is very unlikely it ever ever will. There is a test to determine if block is a likely canidate for failure. The block that CUMMINS supplies is what they supply, whatever it is.
I just bought (but haven't picked up) a really nicely set up '01. I paid somewhat less than 1/2 of Blue Book, knowing full well the engine is bad. (not a cracked 53, it broke under load with 50+lbs of boost). I will either be rebuilding this motor, or buying a block and building a new motor using many of the parts from the original. It comes down to a couple factors.
1.) The cost of a new block from Cummins.
2.) If the existing block is a '53'
3.) If the existing block needs boring.
I don't want to bore it if it's a '53', since that is potentially a bad investment.
Main question (finally, he gets to the point!) If I have to buy a new block, how do I get a specific block (Teksid? the Mexican one is what I want)
I know several on this forum have replaced blocks. What's a ballpark figure for a new one?
TIA
Jim
1.) The cost of a new block from Cummins.
2.) If the existing block is a '53'

3.) If the existing block needs boring.
I don't want to bore it if it's a '53', since that is potentially a bad investment.
Main question (finally, he gets to the point!) If I have to buy a new block, how do I get a specific block (Teksid? the Mexican one is what I want)
I know several on this forum have replaced blocks. What's a ballpark figure for a new one?
TIA
Jim
I'm not sure what block it is that Cummins supplies, however when I was having my engine work done in Dallas and thought I might need a new block, Cummins told me that the block runs about $1100. Of course if you need pistons, etc that bill is going to climb quickly.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
i want to say it was $1400 or was it 1600 for a virgin block from cummins last year and it was the latest casting number actually weighed in 35 lbs heavier than the old block and there was some notable casting webs that werent on any of my older blocks. i would have spent $600-800 on machine work to the old block.....and then the fresh head was another $700 i believe from piers then we jsut robbed everything from the old motor turned crank 10/10. all said and done the build was 5000-6000 but we had cam coated pistons, new head and virgin block.... i dont like sleeves and the old motor would clean up at .010 and at .020 #3 & #4 cylinder walls with a sonic check were too thin for 60# + of boost according to the machinist so i opted for a virgin build the way i wanted vs another wrecking yard take out
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Posts: 2,738
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
The block measuring was from Cummins as I recall. It included removing a core plug and measuring the thickness at bottom of block. I would think Cummins has the information somewhere.
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Thanks for the info. I hope to get the truck over to my place next weekend, but won't have any time to work on it. IF it's a 53 block, AND I confirm it has the thin casting, AND it needs boring, 1,400 to 1,600 is reasonable. I just want make **** sure if I have to buy a block, that I don't get the one and only 53 block sitting in some Cummins central 'parts we want to get rid of' warehouse.
One other question. I've seen that Mahle pistons are a LOT cheaper than the Cummins pistons. Mahle has been a high end piston manufacturer forever. Has anybody here used them? Any feedback?
TIA.... again,
Jim
Thanks for the info. I hope to get the truck over to my place next weekend, but won't have any time to work on it. IF it's a 53 block, AND I confirm it has the thin casting, AND it needs boring, 1,400 to 1,600 is reasonable. I just want make **** sure if I have to buy a block, that I don't get the one and only 53 block sitting in some Cummins central 'parts we want to get rid of' warehouse.
One other question. I've seen that Mahle pistons are a LOT cheaper than the Cummins pistons. Mahle has been a high end piston manufacturer forever. Has anybody here used them? Any feedback?
TIA.... again,
Jim
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