Best injector cleaner??
Yes, it's an old thread.
Started using LUBE CONTROL back in the 1960's when it was known as MICROLUBE. Transport aircraft (airlines/military) were huge buyers to control oil consumption in piston radial engines. So were huge Detroit two-stokes in the oilfield.
OTC products have to justify huge overhead expenses. This does not. Use as directed. It does what it claims (the best praise I can think of).
Small engine equipment lasts forever (4-stroke) if used.
http://lubecontrol.com/lube.htm
Found it again as a result of BITOG (Bobis.....) back in 2002. Local man (Dallas area) had license and I started using again, along with FP60. Four different vehicles, gasoline and diesel. Some saw mpg improvement, some didn't. But carb'd cars had better hot weather performance, and ALL saw smoother performance. Lubricating factor is excellent.
On my 2004 it is worth about .5 mpg. A small margin, but telling over many, many miles. If I am out, my mpg percentage decreases. Not big, but the use pays for itself there. And the benefits of cleaner combustion (think of as fuel catalyst) so long term benefits are the REAL payoff.
I find that -- after over 100,000 miles of use on both (FP60 & LC20) -- that bad fuel, superhot weather, etc no longer affect vehicle running so much. No other additive has been so consistent. It's a difference you didn't know existed . . . .
So this -- consistency -- is why I continue to purchase these products. LC20 will keep engine internals cleaner & longer. FP60 helps marginal fuel (may meet "standard" but you can EASILY tell on a gasser as it ages.)
LC20 plus synthetic ATF is a great penetrant and gun cleaner/lube. See posts by MOLAKULE (a chemist) on BITOG about "Molasoak". I use it for everything pretty much.
I've tried all the OTC diesel fuel additives. None are as good. They're okay, but they cost more per treatment. Some of the other mail-order ones may be good but I don't have experience with them.
Buy enough to double-dose with both products at first tank and before an oil change (100 miles or less), and then use as directed for 10,000 miles. Record all fuel use, is my recommendation, to see what you think.
I have also had excellent service from AUTO-RX, and the oil analysis to prove it (per Terry Dyson of DYSON ANALYSIS) on a gasser. My truck is due for this service.
http://www.dysonanalysis.com/
When I bought the truck I ran A-RX as prescribed in engine, trans, rear axle. Due again.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
I also have averaged 23.7 mpg for ALL miles the past 18,000. 650-mile roundtrip commute between two cities and drive about 100-150 miles in each before turn-around. Multiple cold starts and short trips in town, then steady state highway runs (where I NEVER fall below 24-mpg [hot, cold, rain, traffic, loaded or empty] and have seen consistent highs of 27+). Factory fluids. (A common rail 305/555 ISB).
I use 5w40 ROTELLA synthetic with LC20, and then do A-RX procedure with 15w40 conventional oil. Best low restriction, high capacity filters, always.
A clean engine, like a clean fuel system, allows the oil or fuel to do it's work as designed.
.
.
.
Started using LUBE CONTROL back in the 1960's when it was known as MICROLUBE. Transport aircraft (airlines/military) were huge buyers to control oil consumption in piston radial engines. So were huge Detroit two-stokes in the oilfield.
OTC products have to justify huge overhead expenses. This does not. Use as directed. It does what it claims (the best praise I can think of).
Small engine equipment lasts forever (4-stroke) if used.
http://lubecontrol.com/lube.htm
Found it again as a result of BITOG (Bobis.....) back in 2002. Local man (Dallas area) had license and I started using again, along with FP60. Four different vehicles, gasoline and diesel. Some saw mpg improvement, some didn't. But carb'd cars had better hot weather performance, and ALL saw smoother performance. Lubricating factor is excellent.
On my 2004 it is worth about .5 mpg. A small margin, but telling over many, many miles. If I am out, my mpg percentage decreases. Not big, but the use pays for itself there. And the benefits of cleaner combustion (think of as fuel catalyst) so long term benefits are the REAL payoff.
I find that -- after over 100,000 miles of use on both (FP60 & LC20) -- that bad fuel, superhot weather, etc no longer affect vehicle running so much. No other additive has been so consistent. It's a difference you didn't know existed . . . .
So this -- consistency -- is why I continue to purchase these products. LC20 will keep engine internals cleaner & longer. FP60 helps marginal fuel (may meet "standard" but you can EASILY tell on a gasser as it ages.)
LC20 plus synthetic ATF is a great penetrant and gun cleaner/lube. See posts by MOLAKULE (a chemist) on BITOG about "Molasoak". I use it for everything pretty much.
I've tried all the OTC diesel fuel additives. None are as good. They're okay, but they cost more per treatment. Some of the other mail-order ones may be good but I don't have experience with them.
Buy enough to double-dose with both products at first tank and before an oil change (100 miles or less), and then use as directed for 10,000 miles. Record all fuel use, is my recommendation, to see what you think.
I have also had excellent service from AUTO-RX, and the oil analysis to prove it (per Terry Dyson of DYSON ANALYSIS) on a gasser. My truck is due for this service.
http://www.dysonanalysis.com/
When I bought the truck I ran A-RX as prescribed in engine, trans, rear axle. Due again.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
I also have averaged 23.7 mpg for ALL miles the past 18,000. 650-mile roundtrip commute between two cities and drive about 100-150 miles in each before turn-around. Multiple cold starts and short trips in town, then steady state highway runs (where I NEVER fall below 24-mpg [hot, cold, rain, traffic, loaded or empty] and have seen consistent highs of 27+). Factory fluids. (A common rail 305/555 ISB).
I use 5w40 ROTELLA synthetic with LC20, and then do A-RX procedure with 15w40 conventional oil. Best low restriction, high capacity filters, always.
A clean engine, like a clean fuel system, allows the oil or fuel to do it's work as designed.
.
.
.
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