slighfoxs3500

Is it safe to drill out the banjo bolts at the fuel pump, at the fuel filter and at the fuel injection pump. If yes, what is the best/safest way to get this done. I replaced my lift pump and noticed how small the holes are in the banjo bolts compared to the banjo fitting. I have seen aftermarket banjo bolts but really don't want to pay someone to drill a hole for me. I figure to take some stress/resistance off the lift pump. Which should increase fuel to the injection pump and make things last longer. I am also loking at putting in a pusher pump in tandem with the Carter lift pump but monted back by the tank. Any part numbers on a good pusher out there. Thanks for any ideas.

Ruralmedic

I think it's entirely safe to drill them oversize, I've read where some have done that, usually to 3/16" I believe. I'd clamp them in a vise and use a drill press or vertical milling machine to do the work, to ensure accuracy. The most critical part is properly deburring the holes after. You also may need new washers, each banjo requires two.
That's something that I have been wanting to do also, but have never gotten around to it.

But for 30 odd some dollars, I may just buy the kit from Geno's.

PourinDiesel

You'll need a 3/16" drill bit, I suggest getting the pre-tipped De Walt bits.
Also, it is better to use a drill press.
I suggest another set of stock banjos incase you mess one up during this operation.

Simply run the bit through the holes, keep the bit cool.
This banjo bolt steel is pretty hard.

You will need to debur these bolts once you get them done.
I suggest a round file to debur the inside diameter.
Also, a hone stone to spin the outside diameter of the bolts on to debur the outsides of the holes.

Make sure these bolts are clean and free of metal burrs before installation.

I run the homemade drilled setup and I can only take my fuel PSI down to 7.
That is with a Custom Comp and 125hp injectors.

Mainly, keep your fuel filter changed and get yourself a Westach fuel pressure gauge, you will need a conversion hose to mount it from the schrader valve to the sender.
PM for more info.

--Justin

TPilaske

I think it's easier just to spend the $35 and buy 'em... but that's just me...


Tony

slighfoxs3500

I really appreciate the information on how to drill and deburr. Can I squeeze yuh for some more info. Did you drill out all your banjo's or just the ones leading into the fuel filter, or just the lift pump, or just the injection pump? Also, you said that you can only get it down to 7psi. I am perplexed by that statement. I am under the impression that 16 to 18 PSI at idle and no less than 8 PSI WOT are good readings. I am really trying hard to make a reliable long lasting truck and want to correct the design flaws of DC but not spend a lot of money doing so. You see, I am in the Navy and opposite to popular belief. That means that I am not a millionaire and live a life of pinching lincoln til he screams. I love my career and wouldn't change it but still work two additional jobs to afford toys or luxuries for my family and I. Ok, off the soap box and on to the issue at hand. Is PSI or Volume the real issue in keeping the Fuel system warm and fuzzy? Thanks again and hope to hear back soon!

MLR1

Use a press, drill to 3/16 and deburr. I used a needle file to deburr did the job nicely. I did all 5 bolts took about an hour the hardest part was retorque. I was able to reuse the gaskets with no leaks. The larger holes will relieve back pressure on the lift pump = longer life. Best part only cost $3.00 for a new bit. ;D

PourinDiesel

I run 16psi @ idle with my drilled setup.
At WOT with 125hp injectors and a Drag box I can only bring my fuel pressure down to 7 Psi.

Cruising on the interstate I run about 13-14psi.

I like my fuel system, although i need to get a pusher setup to gain a little top end fueling, but I do not want to exceed 16 psi at the inlet of the VP44.

I am sure glad I didnt buy a PE4200 pusher setup after reading of all the recent deaths and odd behavior from these pumps.

--Justin

perk

I am a little new to these Dodges. I keep hearing about these banjos, what and where are they? I have been able to pickup that they are part of the fuel system, but not much more.

MLR1

Hi Perk
You are right, they are the bolts that conect the fuel lines to the lift pump, fuel filter, and injection pump. Follow the fuel lines forward and back from the filter there are 5 of them. 2 on the filter, 2 on the lift pump, and 1 on the injection pump.

TPilaske

and this is what they look like Perk...

(this is one from Geno's Garage, stock ones have rounder heads)

Push Rod

You've received some great advice on how to drill your bolts out, but you'll also want to put a bit of a rounded shoulder on the cross drilled ports to aid in smooth fuel flow.

If you plan on more than ~320 ponies or so, skip the banjos all together though. Its a waste of time and money, as the lift pumps still won't stay glued together due to excessive back pressure on the bypass valve. A pusher pump will only tend to exasperate the situation. Eliminate the junk stocker lines (we prefer -8 lines, although -6 will work up to 375 HP) and use a single factory lift pump up to the 400 pony mark. After that, you'll want a good replacement (the PE series has had some issues, so you'll want to hold off on these until PE says they are ready for prime time. Bosch and Aeromotive are looking promising).

Rod

slighfoxs3500

Thanks again to all who have answered up. I am still going strong since replaccccing the lift pump and cleaning everything, adjusting everything and retraining the APPS. I haven't run it real hard but plan on it soon. We'll see wha happens. ;D

BigBlue

[quote author=PourinDiesel link=board=4;threadid=18922;start=0#msg178319 date=1062172723]

I like my fuel system, although i need to get a pusher setup to gain a little top end fueling, but I do not want to exceed 16 psi at the inlet of the VP44.

I am sure glad I didnt buy a PE4200 pusher setup after reading of all the recent deaths and odd behavior from these pumps.

--Justin
[/quote]

Why don't you want to exceed 16 psi?

The problems I've had with my PE pump (and possibly my Holley Pump) turned out to be a gauge problem. Thank god. Except now I think my injection pump is dying. :'(

PourinDiesel

The reason I do not want to exceed 16 PSI. I think under mass fuel consumption with the VP44 will compound excessive pressure and blow seals. I have seen examples of this.

I have 71k miles on my injection pump, and 40k of that with the wire pierced.
No hard starting issues, ever.

Why do you want to exceed 16-20 psi????
Your VP is not going to pump more fuel?

What I would like to accomplish is a consistent fuel pressure reading under 20 psi and it not move ever.
I also plan to wire this system up correctly with a relay so I dont have 20psi when I am trying to start my truck.

--Justin

BigBlue

I had mine wired correctly but for some reason, the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse block died. It worked for a while then died. Don't ask me how or why cause I don't know.
I had it setup with the relay kit that came with the pump (2 40 amp relays) and had it wired in correctly. Ther trigger wire for the PE relays was the same trigger wire for the stock lift pump.

A setup where it would hold 20 psi under all conditions not matter what would be nice.

I don't necesarily (sp) want to exceed 16-20 psi. But I would like to be able to supply the pump with that much, or very close to that much, fuel at all times.