It was time to do the ball joints on the 2001 what a job the Vp44 was easier.
Note Canada, Nova Scotia winters and tons of salt used to clear the snow lots of rust built up. Did the passenger side first knowing the universal had been changed 20,000 km ago. Bearing feel out no problem dealer put anti-seize on. The ball joints were a lot of fun had the puller kit but not enough fittings in the kit like Mr Gadgets notes. You will have to add a few pieces to our kit like 2" black iron pipe works well or Pvc fittings when you have nothing else on Good Friday. After beating the disk to death the hub bearing seemed a little noisy. I tried the 80w140 oil in the antilock sensor but put too much oil in and it caused the antilock to activate at slow speeds be careful how much you put in. I have to drain it out today hope it works. Side number two it has never been apart. I went to the driver side and it took me 4 to 5 hours trying to get hub bearing out I was trying to save it. I gave up and started using the puller to pull the bearing and the power steering method but it did not move. Let me tell you the power steering method puts a ton of pressure on the steering box which I don’t need to repair later be careful it puts a ton of pressure on the box. I am glad I have the DSS brace. I got my collection of chisels and began hammering on the four bolts and tons of PB Blast and KP51 even got a one ton jack be hide the bolts and the frame and it started to move. Note I also tried the driving method at 60 km with the four hub bolts lose and nailed the brakes, it still did not move. Well after replacing new disk, Hub Bearing, Dust shield, and also a universal Joint on that side and the ball joints it is done and the Beer break starts now. I can finally get my Safety inspection done. The reason I posted this because it was a major job if you want to save the hub bearing also I post my PVC fitting spacer tool to push the ball joint in worked great. Good luck with your ball joint Jobs.

 

When I did my driver side I left the axle nut on and then went to beatin the fire out of the hub bearing with a 20 pound sledge with 18" handle. A little tip from a friend, leaving the nut on the axle will keep the wheel bearing from seperating. 15 or 20 minutes laying on your back swinging that hammer, wow!

When the bearing started to work out I could drop down to a 5lb sledge until it was about to pop out then I took the nut off( I loosened it at first and put it back on snug against the hub bearing before the beating started) then popped the hub out. My backing plate for the brakes looked like murder though.

 

Thanks Beatle for sharing your experience. I will be doing my ball joints soon and I need all the advice I can get. I've always wondered about the "Power Steering Method" and the eventual adverse effects it may have to the steering. Never thought of using PVC! I have the 4X4 w/Dana 60 and I am trying to find out the diameter of the adapter I'll need for removal and installation. Thanks for your post.

 

Yeah, ordering the parts for the wheel bearing, ball joints and u-joints now. Just want to have the right tools for the job. What size PVC do I need (and black iron pipe?)?....

 

I never thought of the pvc like you used when I was trying to remove the top ball joint. I couldn't come up with the right pieces in the kit I borrowed from the parts store. So I cut about piece of pipe about 1" long and put it over the stud and came up with the pieces to push the ball joint out. It took me about 16 hours of work and 2 1/2 days to do it. I'm sure letting the joints & bearings soak overnight helped them to come out. Mr Gadgets notes/pics were a great help.

 

2" black iron seems to be the right size for pushing in the upper ball joint about 1" thick works great. If you have the low end ball joint kit. You would use it where I have the PVC fitting. I used the Pvc fitting which was a 2" to 1.5 reducer I had it at work I am in the heating business. I would only use the PVC for install only. When I remove the old ball joint lots of HEAT RED HOT.

 

Thanks for the diameters Beatle!

 

im about to do mine which ball joints u all recomend i plan on the moog but which ones adj or not? and does it matter if they are adj?

 

dont all talk at once now?

 

Sorry I went with Napa lifetime ball joints. But looks like a lot of people use Moog. I also went with stock ball joints no problems and stock tires.

 

Unless you have a caster issue, you shouldn't need adjustable ones. I went with moog because they were out of spicers at the time. Either brand should work, I just prefer spicer when I can get them.

 

Just got my MOOG joints yesterday(7397 and 7394). They are both greasable, too. I also bought some u-joints from RockAuto.com (Precision #354) and thought they weren't greasable, but they are. I bought a black iron pipe 2" nipple that's about 2 inches long for $1.50 from HD and looks like it should work fine. Now I just have to get the time for the wheel bearing, ball joint, u-joint install. Fun, Fun....

 

Let us know how it works out sheriffav8r

 

i got my MOOG im gonna start the PB blaster today and prep it for friday night with a shot of PB blaster everyday this week. Im gonna try this without using every cuss word in the book.

 

How did you make out on the ball joints.