Bad brake
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Bad brake
My left rear for some reason killed its self. Rotor was chewed, pads history, caliper pistons all the way out and seized. It wasn't that way last spring when I put my summer tires on. Any ideas as to what my have caused it? All my other brakes are perfect.
$122 dollars for both rear rotors and pads, $80 for the caliper and hardware.
$122 dollars for both rear rotors and pads, $80 for the caliper and hardware.
#2
Registered User
I don't know about the rear disk stuff, but- maybe collapsed brake hose that did not release the brake?
(on the drum brake version there is one hose supplying both rear brakes)
Or maybe stuck piston or stuck caliper guide?
Nevertheless- check that stuff on all 4 corners, it's the same age, and I would like to continue seeing you post here... brakes are important..
(on the drum brake version there is one hose supplying both rear brakes)
Or maybe stuck piston or stuck caliper guide?
Nevertheless- check that stuff on all 4 corners, it's the same age, and I would like to continue seeing you post here... brakes are important..
#3
Registered User
Mine did this a long while back...moisture gets in the piston/cup area and corroded it a bit then it can't release as well.
If you pull the old one apart you can see it I bet...
If you pull the old one apart you can see it I bet...
#4
Registered User
Cougar
I've seen rear pads delaminate after a few seasons, just from road crud. The lining then wedges itself between the plate and the rotor, and proceeds to destroy everything.
I've seen rear pads delaminate after a few seasons, just from road crud. The lining then wedges itself between the plate and the rotor, and proceeds to destroy everything.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
100 miles and no hint of it dragging. Anyone have a torque spec on the caliper banjo bolt? I'm getting a little seep from there.
#7
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
Sorry, do have the actual torque for your vehicle, but bet that it is about 20 ft/lbs or 245 in/lbs. Did you use two new copper washers? If not, then suggest that you anneal the old ones before using them again. An easy and quick job.
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#8
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Thread Starter
New worshers with the caliper. This weekend when I do the other side I'll take a wire cup to the sealing surface and use a different worsher.
#9
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Thread Starter
Finally got round to doing the right rear. Had to replace that caliper also. The pucks stuck and I couldn't get them all the way in. Also had a fun time getting the old rotor off. But, it's done. Now back to the left side and try to fix the leaking seal.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got er done, finally, I hope. Had to replace the left caliper again. Not too happy with Napa's rebuilds. I'll dig into the front brakes next spring.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, now the front right self distructed while driving round town yesterday. Towed to a nearby shop I trusted. They will give me a quote next week when they can get it into the shop. It's going to be expensive.
#13
Registered User
The liquid de icer they use down here has reeked all kinds of havoc from delaminating cement driveways to rusting up undersides of vehicles...
I run the hot water thru my presssure washer each spring and occasionally thru the winter to flush out all four corners....watch out the first time you hit the brakes after though!!
Fronts are about the same as the rears if discs all around. IIRC the caliper was 62 bucks and the pads are 48, rotors were around 35 each...but you're in Alaska so you pay more...
I run the hot water thru my presssure washer each spring and occasionally thru the winter to flush out all four corners....watch out the first time you hit the brakes after though!!
Fronts are about the same as the rears if discs all around. IIRC the caliper was 62 bucks and the pads are 48, rotors were around 35 each...but you're in Alaska so you pay more...
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hot_runner58
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12-23-2013 12:58 PM