Axle seal ?
Every now and then my trucks left rear caliper acts like it is sticking. Also the inside of the wheel is coated with either gear oil or brake fluid. It smells more like gear oil but I can't tell if the axle seal needs replaced or not. The brake fluid level is fine and appears not to be using. Can someone help please?
Trending Topics
Its not too bad.. never done one on a 98 or new... on the older ones.. there was a big nut on the end of the axle housing... Sometimes the threads came off with the nut... Usually replaced the nut... very worst case... U replace the axle housing.. but I never saw one that bad... other than that its not too bad.. don't remember any special tools.. been a few yrs since I have done one...
Art,
You need the axle nut socket. Just can't remember the size right now. It's big.
The axle nut has a nylon insert and a locking "key" that is driven into the keyway on the housing so that it bites into the nylon insert. This keeps the nut from backing off.
Very bad if the nut backs off, the whole enchilada - wheel, drum, axle and all fall out - nasty.
The proper way to do this is to always use a new nut. You have to use a new key, it's a consumable.
The seal itself is fairly easy, bit of a pain to get it straight to start in. Good idea to re-pack your wheel bearings.
I drain my diff down a bit so things aren't getting messy at the end of the housing while working there. The nut gets torqued (can't remember that either) and then backed off 2/3 turn (270*) then drive the key home.
Replace the diff lube. If things got real messy in there with oil, you really should replace the brake shoes. they'll never be right no matter how much you clean them.
Hope that helps.
You need the axle nut socket. Just can't remember the size right now. It's big.
The axle nut has a nylon insert and a locking "key" that is driven into the keyway on the housing so that it bites into the nylon insert. This keeps the nut from backing off.
Very bad if the nut backs off, the whole enchilada - wheel, drum, axle and all fall out - nasty.
The proper way to do this is to always use a new nut. You have to use a new key, it's a consumable.
The seal itself is fairly easy, bit of a pain to get it straight to start in. Good idea to re-pack your wheel bearings.
I drain my diff down a bit so things aren't getting messy at the end of the housing while working there. The nut gets torqued (can't remember that either) and then backed off 2/3 turn (270*) then drive the key home.
Replace the diff lube. If things got real messy in there with oil, you really should replace the brake shoes. they'll never be right no matter how much you clean them.
Hope that helps.
Hey just did mine on the 99...the torque is 130 ftlbs then back off 1/3 turn, then insert the locking piece into the NEW nut...piece of cake...the local cummins shop let me borrow the socket for the nut...but can't remember the size of it...but it is a big one....hope that helps ya out.....
NAPA carries the socket to remove the large nut, I think it cost about $25.00 or so. If your in that deep you might want to replace your wheel bearings as well and make an afternoon of it.
Have a catch pan ready when you pull the axle's cause you'll need it. Oh please make sure if you replace the wheel bearings to make sure Someone has them in Stock and that they Match.
I spent a whole day chasing my tail to get the right set, I sent my wife to pick up the first incorrect set It was a long day
Good Luck
Have a catch pan ready when you pull the axle's cause you'll need it. Oh please make sure if you replace the wheel bearings to make sure Someone has them in Stock and that they Match.
I spent a whole day chasing my tail to get the right set, I sent my wife to pick up the first incorrect set It was a long day
Good Luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pwrtripls1
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
4
Jan 7, 2008 08:55 PM
dieseljerk
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
2
Jul 8, 2004 07:23 AM



