OK guru's

before I button everyting up...would you say that if you cant get the voltage exactly which would be better...

a little over or a little under...and what would the difference in results be...

ie...

my tag says.... .526V

inspection showed .41

couldnt get .526....i could get .530 and .510

I set it to .530 because to me (and I hope everone else that took math) .3 is closer to .26 than .1

what do you think...

leave it at .530 and button it up.... or set it at .510

thanks

NCA

 

nobody huh...

well, I decided to leave it at .530 for the apps recalibrate.

and then D/C the neg's to do the apps reset....

first drive...

check engine light is on...dont have a scanner but I figure that I have the 1688 or 89 which ever one is the companion code and probally its telling me the Input voltage is to high...

but the TRANNY has never felt better....she shifts soooo smooth 1st to 2nd...holds second through 2000 and shifts smooooooooth to 3rd at 2100 ish and then holds 3rd really well through 2300 and takes off like a raped ape into 4th..just like that good ol cummins should!!!!!!!!!!

It helps that about a month ago, I had Left Coast Diesel do a tranny service and my boy took care of me...flush,bands, and filter for a nice price...(and yea was having the lock and unlock APPS issues before I took it in, so it wasnt anything they could have done)

will tell more tommrow...I only drove it up untill operating temp and a total of 10 miles, but made sure that within that 10 miles I had plenty of up and down shifting stop light and city speeds, then out on a major road and got it up to 60 mph....

if anyone wants to give there opinion on going over the recommended voltage limit I would still appericate it..because this was about a 30 min. fix and doing it over would take about 10 minutes, now that I am not going SLOWLY to prevent the t-20 bolts from striping....lol

NCA

 

I'd say that .530 is close enough. Basically your voltage will increase as you depress the pedal, so this is just bringing you up a little faster when you come off of idle.

You may just have a code left over from the adjustment that once cleared, won't be back. I usually clear mine with the Smarty after playing with it just to be sure.

 

thanks Aggie...

but could you clearify "just have a code left over from the adjustment that once cleard..."

what do you mean, once cleard???

as in there was already a code in there that never lit up the dash light...because I had no check engine light on before this adjustment....

kinda confussed on what you mean.

thanks

PS...yea, I did read on other threads, that I searched, that the check engine light went off after a few days for others...I am gonna take her to LCD to have them clear it for me...glad to hear you dont think it will be a problem to have it slightly over.

 

Sorry, after re-reading that, it wasn't very clear (sounded great in my head, but horrible in writing).

What I meant is that you may have set a code while doing the adjustment that got stored. And if you clear that code from the ECM, you probably won't see a new one set. If you do, then it may need to be dialed back to a lower voltage.

I would clear that code, the go for another test run and see if it comes back. If not, I'd call it good and enjoy the new adjustment.

 

I had the same problem, did you rewire the ground,.If you did the 2 wires running back to the dash ground need to contacted to the same point. If they do not then the computer picks up a ground fault that triggers the check engine light.

 

no I did not do the ground wire (s) cut thing from ATS...I recalibarated my APPS sensor to what factory spec says it should be.

I do however have my ground leads from the alt. wraped in Aluminimum foil then wraped with electrical tape..that helped alittle in the beginning...then the problem came back..then I read about the APPS reset...that again helped for awhile...then I read that is a difference between a reset and recalibration...and let me tell you what after doing the recalibration any other step (except replacing it completly) would and did waste time...my APPS was out of spec over .1 volts which is a lot considering were are talking about .526 factory spec.

She runs great, Code is cleared and it was APPS input voltage....


NCA

 

My apps was set 0.148 volts low from the factory and I set it ??? 5 or 7 micro volts high and it come down to ??? a couple of milli volts low from the 0.468 it ran better then any thing that crysler ever did for it!