NWDave

[quote author=TPilaske link=board=4;threadid=6190;start=0#56632 date=1035419922]<br><br><br>Tony<br><br>Ooops - forgot to mention, I did swap all the banjos w/ high flows when I put in the gauge. It has been in for a couple weeks now, but just the past couple days I started getting the higher readings! <br>[/quote]<br><br>Hey Tony, when you swapped all the banjos w/ high flows, how many did you put in? I'm getting my gauge package together and I know I need ONE tapped banjo. Your article suggests that it's to my benefit to replace OEM with banjos. I see that if you order them, they can come in kits of 5 (apparently 1 tapped, 4 non-tapped). Which bolts are being replaced on which device (fuel injection Pump?) I think I'm starting to confuse myself with too much information (better known as a senior moment/hour). Anyone else, please feel free to pass along your observations and comments. I'm shooting for a gauge installation date of Nov 23 (my next BOMB party). When you're ordering items from Wildcat, that ain't much time. (That doesn't mean they're slow, the postal service/delivery service are the culprits here).<br><br>~Dave

danlit

Hey Tony, do you live in a colder area? Diesel gets heavier<br>just like the oil does. (harder to push when cold)<br>Wait till you see the pressure on a 0degree Day<br> Danny

TPilaske

Danlit:<br><br>Yep, I live in Michigan! It's cold!<br><br>NWDave:<br><br>There are 5 Banjos all together. I replaced them all. I only put 1 tapped for the FP sensor. You can put another tapped w/ schrader valve if you want to keep the factory test port. I didn't. Hope this helps! ;D<br><br>Tony

BigBlue

Just found out I have a small leak in the line going from my pump to my sender. Enough to where after I get done running the truck, it is dripping down the front. It's none of the other bolts cause they are dry. I'm going to tighten that one up tonight (if it would stop raining &gt;. It's been a constant down pour since 3 o'clock and it's now 5:30 and it doesn't look like it's going to lighten up. Oh well. It'll help wash the mud off from yest. ;D) and see if the pressure goes back up. I've got one more to replace and that is the one underneath the filter housing. I haven't properlu torqued them down. Just to where they are tight with a socket and the don't leak. Think that may be a problem? How in the world do you get a torque wrench back on some of them?

StakeMan

Don't over tighten them. You can snap the heads off.

deezel1

I had the same thing happen to me...changed the fuel filter and it would not pump anymore. It had no suction at all, and would not draw fuel from the tank. It would push fuel if I got fuel up to it, but it would not pull fuel at all. After reading that post about dealers not wanting to warranty if you have gauges. I say if I had mods and was sure there was a good chance that the mods caused the failure I would not even go back to the dealer...I would fix it myself or pay a diesel shop to fix it. That is only honest and right. However, I had no mods when that pump failed at 18000 miles. I only had 28000 on the next pump when it was bad. The EZ was on but had only been for a few weeks. I put a permanent gauge on and only had 8psi at idle and 4-5 on the road, and near none when accelerating. These pumps are junk. In my opinion the whole fuel system on the 24 valvers is very poor. I don't blame all of this on Dodge or Cummins...our communist government's pollution regs played a big part. The 12 valve<br>fuel system was much better. We have two older Macks at work with the Bosch inline pump and they are still going strong and so are the lift pumps. If I am ever looking to buy a used CTD it will not be a 24 valve. I probably will never buy another Chrysler product anyway...just my opinion.

TPilaske

forget going nuts trying to use the torque wrench on them! Just snug 'em up! 18lbs isn't much! If your uncomfortable, just use a bolt in a piece of wood and see what 18lbs feels like! ;D<br><br>Tony

ATEAV8GN

Something I've learned after replacing 2 lift pumps and an injection pump and putting injectors in 2 trucks.... When your priming the system after you've opened it up, a good trick I've learned, if your very fast or have a buddy handy, bump the starter to get the pump to run for the 25 secs and then crack the water drain on the filter housing and let it pump some fuel out, then close it off before the pump stops, this will almost always get pressure in the system. <br><br>Last week when we installed BKay's injectors and lift pump, it only took 2 or 3 bumps of the starter and the crack the water drain trick to get the truck to start. The first time I changed my fuel filter, before I figured out this trick, it took me darn near 45 mins to get the truck started again.<br><br>Hope this helps everyone out. <br><br>

BigBlue

ATEAV8GN, I learned that the hard way. First time I did the filter, got air in the lines and just kept cranking and cranking and the thing finally fired. Didn't think about the water in fuel drain thingy at the time. Next time though, did it and there was a lot of air in there before fuel started pumping.<br><br>The leak on my FP gauge is bigger than I thought. If the truck has been sitting for more than 3 hours, when I start it up, it'll start, then studder for a quick sec, then do fine. I need to tighten that thing down tomorrow before I get out of town.