I’ve seemed to have one problem after another lately with this truck. I put a airdog lift pump on it a little over a year ago. It would jerk once I hit about 40-50 mph then come out of it. That problem would come and go. Then I started getting no bus code and all my cluster gauges started acting up and quit working for a while along with my turn signal. then one day they all started working fine again. Thought all was well after a while and one day it just lost all power at a stop light and had no power and got it home going no faster than 10 mph. It set for a day and I started It and it idled rough for a few minutes then came out of it and had power back when pushing pedal. Afraid to take it far at this point until I figure this out. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Definitely sounds like an electrical issue. I'd suggest you start by investigating ALL major electrical connections and condition of your batteries. Check all battery cables, all large wire connections (there's one under the drivers side fender too) and all the major grounds as well. Make sure they're all tight, free from moisture and corrosion, and it wouldn't hurt to take them apart and install some dielectric grease just in case. Road salts are horrible and will cause major corrosion which will cause all kinds of electrical issues.

 

Thanks for the response. When weather allows me definitely gonna take a better look at al connections. When the last issue began I hit a couple road bumps that shook the truck pretty well just wondering if it knocked something loose.

 

I also have a problem where the batteries drain if I don’t start it every 3-4 days. I replaced the batteries last year with the alternator and still have that problem. I had one mechanic say he thought it could be the tps sensor causing the most recent issue. I also think it’s connection issue, ecm,pcm, my new life airdog lift pump going bad after a year, or worst ignition pump. The check engine light comes and goes and not getting a cold on my edge insight. Everything besides the exhaust is stock.

 

Automotive batteries can only be drained about 2 to 3 times before they're ruined as it causes sulfation of the cells. So check battery condition again... A weak battery or bad cell will cause phantom electrical issues.
There is no TPS either but rather an APPS sensor. You can test the APPS voltage to make sure the rheostat is OK throughout the throttle swing.
Draining batteries is likely from a parasitic loss which you can also test for with a voltage multi-meter. Youtube has loads of videos on how to do this...but the first place to check is if you've rewired anything or added some electrical device by tapping into the wiring.
If you think your fuel pump is going bad then hopefully you also have a fuel pressure gauge to let you know if there's any loss of fuel pressure while driving. Thats IMPORTANT...!
And the injection pump doesnt work intermittently so thats not the problem. But...will be if your fuel pump isnt working right.
Lastly, if the CEL has illuminated at all then get a regular code reader and pull those codes.

 

Well I got a cheap code reader and these codes came up p1688, p0251,p0253. Looking like I’m gonna be in the market for a vp44😒

 

I cant stress enough how much everything I pointed out in my post can be culprits for electrical anomalies. It would be well worth the small effort it will take to investigate those items before dumping well over a grand for another injection pump.