47re Valve body removal problems!!
That will come out without removeing the e-clip. The park rod will pull out with the valve body and it will go in the same way it came out but in reverse. It will be a PITA if you never done it that way before and do not have someone helping that has. It sure beats fighting with the e-clip, putting thta e-clip back in is a edited by admin.
Last edited by Totallyrad; Mar 23, 2007 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Profanity S/L
Yea I got all of that done, the e-clip really wasn't as hard as everyone says it is with a friend holding a flash light a flat head screw driver and some luck, took me about 5 minutes. But
I got everything back together, drove the truck, and i only have first and second gear for sure, it sometimes will shift into 3rd and 4th but rarely, and sometimes its hard to get to go into second. I'm about to drive the truck off of a cliff
I got everything back together, drove the truck, and i only have first and second gear for sure, it sometimes will shift into 3rd and 4th but rarely, and sometimes its hard to get to go into second. I'm about to drive the truck off of a cliff
Before I was having problems shifting and when it would shift into drive it would lock in at times where I would be going about 15 mph and wouldn't come out unless I shifted it to 2nd or neutral or it would stall the truck.
Sounds like a tranducer/gov. selonoid. You need to replace them in pairs and should set you back @ $200. Mine would start out in 2nd/3rd and stay there and then would just act goofy and this fixed mine.
do you mean i should replace all three? I replace the TCC and O/D one, I should do the others?
TCC AND O/D-52118500-
GOV PRESS SOL-4617210
GOV PRESS TRANSDUCER(96-99)-56041403AA
TCC AND O/D-52118500-
GOV PRESS SOL-4617210
GOV PRESS TRANSDUCER(96-99)-56041403AA
I only replace the selonoid and transducer and fixed my problem. Those are the two that you should replace in a set unless you have means to test each one but the consensus on this site is to replace both while you're in there and be done with it. Hopefully you can get it back on running right soon because I know how you feel. Nothing like throwing parts at a problem.
Yea I know, I replaced the hardest one first and hoped that would fix my problem, now i get to do it all over again just because I was too cheap to fix each solenoid the first time
I just went and bought that solenoid and transducer, 175 with my discount. Now do I need to take off of VB completely again to change these out or can I just get away with dropping the pan and a few of the star screws? Also, how do the solenoid and transducer go back in, are they simply a pull out and push the new on in procedure, or is something a lil bit more complex?
I just went and bought that solenoid and transducer, 175 with my discount. Now do I need to take off of VB completely again to change these out or can I just get away with dropping the pan and a few of the star screws? Also, how do the solenoid and transducer go back in, are they simply a pull out and push the new on in procedure, or is something a lil bit more complex?
I know this thread is old but thought I'd add my 2cents to the parking rod hassle. I find it easier to leave the parking rod on the VB and removing it is much easier if you do three things,
1) Place in Park
2) for 4WD place transfer case in neutral
3) jack up rear axle with both wheels off the ground
Now when you get to you're ready to remove the VB and it won't come out just rotate the rear drive shaft slightly back and forth. Do this for both removal and install. Easier then dealing with the clip.
1) Place in Park
2) for 4WD place transfer case in neutral
3) jack up rear axle with both wheels off the ground
Now when you get to you're ready to remove the VB and it won't come out just rotate the rear drive shaft slightly back and forth. Do this for both removal and install. Easier then dealing with the clip.
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