Whats a good alternative to the ole slobber bottle . I figure a hose would do it but I don't want it to kink an cause it to build pressure . An I really don't want it to blow all over everything under the truck either .What have you guys been doing ?

 

I've seen several people attach a long hose and snake it up and around to the back of the engine or even along the frame rail to a rearward location, but like you, I was afraid of the hose getting kinked, blocked, frozen up or whatever. So, all I ever did was add a foot or two of hose and run it straight down to get the end clear of the fan's turbulence. Just far enough so the drippings would end up on the ground and not blown onto the rad or engine. I think that's all that's really needed.

 

Or you can relocate drain tube back to the tappet cover where it should be.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Quantity
Part No.
Description

1

4798939
Sealed Tappet Cover

1

4798940
Tappet Cover Gasket

6

4429267
Rubber Grommet Seals



REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves replacing the current tappet cover with a new sealed tappet cover.

Disconnect the negative battery cable at both batteries.
Remove the fuel injection pump. If needed, reference the repair procedure beginning on Page 14-131 of the 1995 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No. 81-370-5108).
Remove the tappet cover and gasket. Remove the grommet seals from the capscrews and discard.
Install the new tappet cover gasket. This gasket must be installed as shown in Figure 1.
Install the new tappet cover with the mounting capscrews and rubber grommet seals. If the application requires a fuel drain line to be installed, use the #2 and #6 capscrews. The capscrews should be torqued in the following sequence 4, 3, 5, 2, 6, and 1 to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). Torque from the inner most capscrews to the outer most.
Check to be sure breather tube is free of all debris and oil.
Install the fuel injection pump. If needed, reference the repair procedure beginning on Page 14 - 135 of the 1995 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No. 81-370-5108).
Connect the negative battery cable at both batteries.

 

I got a four foot piece of 3/4" inner dia fuel hose, a 2" 3/4" pipe nipple and some zip ties.

Routed down under the PS pump, along oil pan and dumps out at trans. really no mess and only drips a bit if I park on an uphill slant.

Total cost, under $15.00.

 

I kept the bottle and relocated it to just behind the drivers headlight right in the corner, I left enough slack so it could be lifted up to empty it.

 

All good ideals Big Iron wasn't the 95's all 12 valve . That would be like like installing a PVC hose only on a Diesel . Six Lug what was the pipe nipple for an is the fuel line steel braded so it want kink ? Busboy the bottle would be easier to get to an empty more often there. Torque fan i've got one of those steering stablizer that runs across from rail to rail in front of the steering box guess a hose would go there. An as long as it wasn't down in the wind it would do fine or use a braded hose . Thanks .

 

I took the puke bottle off the u-shaped hose and put the nipple into the hose halfway, then stuck it into the 4 foot section of all rubber fuel resistant hose. It won't kink the way I did this.

I then routed it down along the oil pan and zip tied it off in a couple places.

The other place to zip tie it is at the nipple on each side. there is no pressure so it probably doesn't need it but better safe than sorry.

You really don't need to retain the bottle. Mine just turns down at the trans. Cheap and easy and no more gunked up underhood mess.

 

Exactly what I did with mine. Must be a NW thing.

 

Another option though not the cheapest is the fleetguard enviroguard unit.
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdf...LI33046-GB.pdf

The above link may not be the correct one for dodge trucks but they do make one that works well. I got one a while back and put it on after it sat in my garage for quite sometime. On my 01 there was already a plug to install it. Just needed to get access to it and pull the plug to insert the return line. When I replaced my ps pump and fixed the vacuum pump leak it was right there in plain sight so I installed it then and it has been fine ever since.

I had previosuly run a hose down by my front diff. All that did was move my oil drip farther down the driveway and it did keep the oil mist out of my radiator but that hose would get soft after a while and then start leaking some and the oily mess just ran down the outside of the hose. Of course I was using heater hose which wasnt the smartest hose type to use. After a couple hose replacements and my brand new driveway I decided to get one.

 

I think I may have used your idea from an earlier post when I did mine about 4 years ago! good advice and it works,, no more gunky radiator

 

Maybe I don't know. I do know I just finally now did it about a month ago.

 

That's funny, I got it from a thread on here, thought it may have been you!

 

Well, I had been thinking about pulling the radiator, the front cover for the KDP check, fixing the vacuum pump leak and taking care of the puke bottle for about that long so who knows. I have been accused of babbling so it might have been something I said. But I did FINALLY get it done and I now do not leave oil everywhere I stop for awhile and the pin is also tabbed.

 

I did that 10+ years ago and have had zero problems. Been all over Baja off road and 70+ mph down Interstate 5 for hours. I bought the standard clear vinyl hose fron the local home supply. Removed the puke bottle and connected the hose. Snaked it to the rear secured with tie wraps.

 

I removed the short plastic hose that was on the steel tube and installed a longer rubber one. I carefully routed and tied it in a nice downward angle out past the trans and it empties right after the transfer case skid plate. Works good for me.