The biggest cause of failure to the VP44 is electrical. Of course they do not like weak fuel pressure, bit most of the failures are electronics. The newer pumps are all remans and they have upgraded circuits in them. I too vote for the common rail or the 12V.

 

I can't really say one way or the other for a swap as that'll never be a need for me. But I love my 24v and I'm glad I chose to go that route instead of CR or 12v. I've been hard on my re-man VP and the in-tank pump and its still going strong.


I think the negativities about the VP44 and factory lift pumps are all things that can be taken care of. No there won't be a total 100% complete fix for the VP44 as it wasn't specifically designed for this application but if I were you I'd go the 24v route with no hesitations at all.

 

Pros = 24 valves instead of the little pukey 12 valves

Cons = That VP44 POS

Prps = Ability to plug and play to get extra HP

Cons = That VP44 POS

Pros = The little 24 valve medalion under the CTD medalion

Cons = That VP44 POS

Pros = One big valve cover instead of six little puney ones

Cons = That VP44 POS

Do you get the message yet?
If you're going to insist on a 24 valve, spend the extra money during the conversion, P pump it and dump that VP44 POS.
BTW, I've had three 12 valves (1989, 1992, 1995) and had I known then what I know now, I would have never bought this 99 with that VP44 POS on it.

 

But to me, if you P-pump it you've lost the best part of the 24v... the ability to use boxes and programmers. Theres little point in going 24v after that.

 

Boxes and programmers are more money than some springs and a plate. You can change the program on the fly in a 12v by pushing the pedal harder.