I bought my '01 back in December with about 172,000 miles on it. I've put a couple thousand miles on it since then. It runs pretty good and this weekend I adjusted the APPS. I'm on a roll replacing things (changed oil and filter, rear diff fluid, topped off transfer case and front diff, replaced fuel filter, replaced front brake pads and 3 rear u-joints).I still need to do coolant flush, check and adjust if necessary the valves, and flush and refill the NV5600. While I'm at it, the head gasket seems to be next on the list. The truck is not a "56" block that I can tell, and does not have any symptoms that would indicate to me that the block itself is cracked. I am not aware of any "hot rodding" that has been done that would hasten the blowing out of my head gasket, but that is not to say that my truck isn't modified or that it wasn't used in the past to pull heavy loads.

The symptoms which lead me to believe my truck needs a head gasket are that it leaks coolant just below the thermostat housing at the engine block/cylinder head junction. There is always a single, minimal green bead of coolant on the top front of my water pump just under the thermostat housing and tell-tale,most of the time dry, coolant marks coming down from the head junction, and much more coolant under it water pump. The coolant stains cross the freeze plug and resemble an upside down tree. At least a portion of the coolant under the water pump could be from the weep hole, not sure. I checked the water pump this past weekend but it seems okay, at least according to the repair manual checklist.

There is no real problem yet, but coolant disappears in very small amounts and I have to periodically refill the coolant overflow reservoir. The truck makes good power. Now my questions:

Is this head gasket replacement something I could tackle at home (I once replaced the killer dowel pin in a 12 valver I had, so I'm not afraid to tear into the thing), or should I have a reputable shop do it. If a shop, are there any good ones specializing in the Cummins 5.9 L in or around Tallahassee Florida? I don't have much money, and need to find the best deal possible. I know the cons of doing it myself are overwhelmingly that the head is a heavy beast, and I don't have an engine hoist. I also don't want to mess up anything like injectors!

thanks very much for any helpful advice!

Ted

 

I would really look at the weep hole in the water pump also there is a rubber Oring in the tstat before i pulled the head . you could warm up the engine and pressure test the cooling system first .if it turns out to be the head it is very doable at home your going to need a hoist to lift off the head and the right tools

 

you could do it at home. having a couple of buddies help lift off the head is always good. they are pretty heavy.

 

Thank you both for these helpful replies! I will do a pressure test on the coolant system and also look into the thermostat housing o-ring, etc..

Ted

 

Refreshed myself by looking at mine.
The theromstat is tricky with the o ring. Water pump can be a pain to figure also. If have access to rad pressure tester, let the engine cool enough not to blow and pressure up to 15 PSI and watch for hour or so. Also there is a UV coolant leak dye avaliable. Dealers and rad shops and NAPA might have. A UV light detects were the leak starts from.
Would you consider some rad stop leak. Have had good results on very small leaks.
Would it be worth the time to retorque the head bolts?

 

and a "56" block isn't the one you have worry about, its the "53" block that has the problems with cracking.

 

My 99 did the same leaking thing. It was the head gasket. I did all the work my self. The injectors were easier than I thought just get a repair manual and follow the steps. Just get the head deaked mine was warped a little and didnt know it. Thats why mine started leaking. Also replace the head bolts because they streach. Parts are cheap at cummins south.

 

Yeah, thats a good point, get the head decked, or atleast checked for any warpage. And now would be the perfect time to do head studs and get the head o-ringed if your planning on any substantial power levels.

 

Thanks guys. With every new post I make it amazes me all the good information DTR members offer.

I have a habit of firing off posts without rechecking them for content. Two blunders: I said in the original post I "replaced a killer dowel pin" when I meant I tabbed it shut, and I called the 53 block a "56" block

The truck really runs good, and I am overall very happy with it even though it has 174k on the clock. I have a couple of projects going right now, and pressure testing the cooling system and head gasket replacement are new tasks for me, as is rebuilding my 1965 volkswagen motor! It's all fun to learn though. I figure maybe if I keep stuffing new knowledge and experiences in my head I'll never develop Alzheimers! LOL

Again, thanks for the help and thanks for helping me keep this beast on the road!

Ted

 

Don't worry about it man. I've got a clingy gf and a 3 year old running around the house, so I don't always have time to sit here and search for things Let us know how you make out...with the cummins and the VW motor, I've always wanted to tear one of those apart just to see how their built.