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1999 2500, 4x4 improvement advice

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Old 12-20-2016, 10:21 PM
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Do keep the thread updated as to how you like the cable kit operation.
Old 12-21-2016, 09:27 AM
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I've had both, and for me, I liked the Posilock.

What I really want is a front axle with true lockouts, but that's for another thread........

To the OP, just make sure you are fully engaged when you lock the cable. I had once or twice where I thought it was fully engaged but wasn't quite all the way.

Other than that, I really liked mine, and if Greenies Vacuum system ever goes down, I might just switch that one as well.
Old 12-21-2016, 07:48 PM
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Thanks!

I'll reply back after I get it installed. I have a little time off over the holidays, so I might get to it in the next week or so. But, with family and holiday stuff I might not.

Patdaly --- I agree. I thought seriously about true lockouts a couple years ago when I needed new front bearing-hubs. I thought it wouldn't be that much more $$ to upgrade, but the price of the o.e. replacement hubs has really come down and I couldn't justify spending the extra $$. Maybe in another 100,000 miles or so when it's time to re-do the front end again...

But like you said, that's for another thread.
Old 04-14-2017, 09:50 PM
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UPDATE: Posi-Lok installed

An old thread, but updating as promised!

I installed the 4x4 Posi-Lok system a few days ago. Here are my thoughts:

The Good:
  • Gotta love 2WD low for backing up trailers
  • System components have a good fit/finish and are quality made
  • I like manually-operated stuff, so removing the vacuum made sense to me

The Bad
  • I did not like where the **** was positioned per the factory instructions as it was too close to my foot; so I made a bracket to move it over a couple inches
  • During assembly, the brass fitting that screws into the aluminum housing threaded in too easily. I ended up using Teflon tape and RTV. So far so good but read below for more.
  • I did not like how the electrical connections were left exposed for the 4x4 light; so I made up a harness out of heat-shrink to protect them from the elements

ADVICE: Cut out the insulation around the accelerator pedal before you use the template to mark your hole. It threw my mark off just enough for my hole to hit that edge of the stiffing web. Made for a PITA to drill and I couldn't use the grommet when complete (heater hose and strip-caulk...)


**Overall I am happy with this. I have not yet tried shifting into 4x4 at a speed over 10 MPH. Before I get slammed, yes you can do this. You just need to have already pulled your cable out to the engaged position before you start moving; then you can work the t-case lever just as you would in the factory setup.

*Regarding my negative comment about the housing, let me explain a little more. If you look at the instructions found here it will help explain:

http://4x4media.info/instructions/psl/PSL400.pdf

*Look at instruction step #16. It says this should thread-hard. Mine threaded fine; too fine; it was like buying a new nut/bolt at the hardware store. What concerned me was, how is this going to keep axle fluid from leaking out? There are not provisions for an o-ring, or any type of gasket/seal between this housing and the fitting described in that step.

*I actually called their phone number and talked to a tech guy. He said he had not had this complaint before. He was very professional and spent a good deal of time digging into the records for this to see if he could find a callout for the thread pitch on the housing. He did not. He did agree that if I experienced any issues with just using tape and RTV that I could call him directly and they would take care of it. I was impressed with the customer service call.

*So ---- I ended up doing just that; tape and RTV. So far so good. I'll keep an eye on it, because you can't really tighten down on a brass fitting going into aluminum all that hard. It'll probably be fine. I'll report back in a few thousand miles to keep all this on-record.

Last thoughts: I don't believe anybody that says they installed this in a couple hours. Maybe I'm just getting old; but stuffing myself up under the dash to drill that hole took more time than that!


Thanks,

--Matt
Attached Thumbnails 1999 2500, 4x4  improvement advice-wp_20170413_20_23_26_pro.jpg   1999 2500, 4x4  improvement advice-wp_20170413_16_33_10_pro.jpg   1999 2500, 4x4  improvement advice-wp_20170413_16_33_04_pro.jpg  

Last edited by mattn124; 04-14-2017 at 09:55 PM. Reason: typo
Old 11-26-2017, 09:21 PM
  #20  
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Update: Removed posi-lok on 11/26

Hello;

Just updating an old thread. I removed the posi-lok cable kit from my truck today because I was never able to get it to hold my 4WD engaged.

Brief summary:

posi-lok kit never worked correctly in my truck; posi-lok techs suggest I have a front-axle problem; I re-installed aged factory parts and my 4WD works again!

Detailed notes:

I installed this posi-lok cable kit back in April, but I have not had much need for 4WD all summer long. I did engage it a few times to make sure it was working. It was always cumbersome to get engaged, but I assumed it was myself getting used to the new kit. Also, the only times I engaged 4WD I was traveling in a straight line (boat ramp, etc...)

About a month ago while moving some firewood whenever I had my truck in 4WD HI or LOW and I had to turn the front wheels I would hear and feel a loud POP and the posi-lok cable would snap back to the disengaged position and I would lose 4WD (while on a gravel or dirt surface, never on pavement with 4WD engaged).

I have been in contact with Posi-lok multiple times about this. Their customer service always took the time to talk to me or call me back. I went over some adjustments with them and removed/adjusted/reinstalled my posi-lok CAD setup from the axle several times. Nothing fixed this problem.

The folks at Posi-lok told me they thought that I had bad bearings in my axle. Seeing as how many miles are on this rig, I agreed this was a possibility. However, I also was not completely sold on this as my factory parts did function at the time I installed the posi-lok (but were getting flaky).

So today, with winter weather sure to come soon; I completely removed the posi-lok system and reinstalled my old factory CAD setup. Everything works perfectly.

I did then repair some of my factory stuff as follows:


I did found that I my original vacuum lines were in poor shape so I replaced all of them by buying 2-harnesses from torque-king (qu11061 - Torque King 4x4). They are nice OE-quality parts. I also replaced the switch and actuator vacuum motor with local parts from O'Rielly's since they were also showing signs of age.

[U]In conclusion, here is what I think may have went wrong with my posi-lok kit:

*The cable does not provide enough travel for the shift-fork and the collar never fully engages both shafts

*The cable does not provide adequate force to the shift fork to hold it in place during 4WD operations. As compared to the factory system that is always applying pressure from the vacuum setup

*As noted earlier in this thread, I had some minor issues with the thread-pitch on my housing. I suspect my housing could be discrepant and not positioning the fork in the correct location


I'm going to contact Posi-lok about this one more time. But since over 6-months has passed I'm not expecting to receive a refund. If they do anything for me I'll be sure to update this thread.

If I had this to do over again, I would have just repaired my factory stuff and then looked into the various options for installing a solenoid for creating my own "2-lo" kit.

At least I already have a hole in the firewall for whenever I have time to mess with that.

--Matt
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