AlpineRAM

The cam gear is pressed on, heating it to 250F in an oven for at least an hour before installing it on the cooled camshaft.
Pressing it off can be problematic, don't overdo it on the heat, you can anneal the hardening of the gear.
(And lead to a failure soon after installation)

Normally you can get to the 2 bolts holding the retainer through holes in the cam gear, maybe your engine is in a position where you can get to them?

Attention, if you want to pull the camshaft you will find that it collides with the front crossmember half way out..

Anyway, with the KDP missing and the engine stuck I'd suggest pulling it. You can do a proper diagnosis and repair with the engine out.

Old Hippy

Took your advice and I'm in the process of removing the motor. I have a manual transmission. Do I split the engine from the trans or the bell housing?

Thanks,

AlpineRAM

Bellhousing.
Disconnect fuel, water, charge air,exhaust, electricals, AC compressor(tie to right frame ), pull all radiators except AC condenser, bend condenser 90degrees so that itpoints straight forward
Pull trans and crossmember straight back about 5-10", support with block of wood.
Support engine with blocks of wood before splitting.
Remove front engine mount bolts, engine supported on crane, pull engine. (I find it's a bit easier with the valve cover removed and some rags on the rockers for cylinders 5 and 6)

Old Hippy

OK Found the problem. Apparently when I pressure washed the engine I did get water in the engine through the bad intake gasket. So much so that when I started the engine I bent the rod on number 6 cylinder and took out a small piece of the casting on the skirt of the cylinder wall. Everything else "looks good". I am going to take the long block with pistons to the machine shop to have it checked out.

Thanks for all the help.

Ed ke6bnl

Where are you located?

Old Hippy

I live in a place called Happy Jack, Arizona It's a private parcel of land in the Coconino National Forest. About 80 miles Southeast of Flagstaff AZ

Old Hippy

So, OK last problem. On the Bosch pump. Which hole goes to which injector line? Didn't loosen the clamps when I removed lines. Just want to make sure.

AlpineRAM

Unless you did a lot of bending they will only go back together the right way.

Do you have a factory service manual for your truck?

The Zoomer

I have a 24V in running condition. I'm southern California. San Bernardino area. Would give you a good deal, call me 909-952-1037

AlpineRAM

I'd suggest taking a good look at what you have now (after ruining it)

Cummins parts are quite cheap, rebuild it to last another half or whole million miles- or buy some old engine of questionable history and plug it in there- your money, you take your chances.

Old Hippy

OK I'm all back together and about to start up. I have a lift pump on my truck. Can I use it to bleed the fuel system all the way to the injectors? Will the injection pump allow the fuel through?

AlpineRAM

The LP will only bleed up to the injection pump.
Then you turn the engine over with the starter with all 6 injection lines open (transfer tubes on the head backed out about one turn)
When you see fuel at the first line tighten it. Repeat for the other lines. Engine will "start" and run rough after the 3rd line, let it sputter for some seconds, turn off, tighten all lines, start engine and let it idle until it smoothes out. (about a minute)
Never let the starter turn the engine for more than 30 seconds, let it cool down for 5 minutes.