12 or 24 valve, That is the Question!!
I am looking for another truck. I have a 93' but would like a quad cab. do I wait for the rareafied 98 12 valve or go with the 24 valve?
I have heard the stories about the IP in the 24 valve, is it really the common of a problem?
Ehat else do I look out for?
What do you think?
Thanks
I have heard the stories about the IP in the 24 valve, is it really the common of a problem?
Ehat else do I look out for?
What do you think?
Thanks
I went with the 12v quad, but it has a few miles- 338k right now, 260 when I got it. I would do the same thing over again- even tho 24 valves are a "plug in a chip and go", I like to tinker with my pump, and not have the lift pump/ip $1800 gremlin lurking out there.
That being said, my old man is pushing 180k with his 24v and is still on his original ip, FASS lift pump.
That being said, my old man is pushing 180k with his 24v and is still on his original ip, FASS lift pump.
For all the bagging I do on the Sparky Computer Geek boys, I have to say I wouldn't trade a 24V for any Furd or Chevy........ Millions of them are out there running around without fail.
I would look hard for a 12V just the same if I had to have a Quad.
I would look hard for a 12V just the same if I had to have a Quad.
12v for sure. Much more fun, cheaper to upgrade, and more reliable. Only downside is that finding a 12v quad cab will be a chore. Myself, I tried to stay away from an extended cab anyway, and that was still a tough thing to do.
I'd go 12V if I could get rear seats on a truck in decent shape. My 24V has been the most expensive to maintain vehicle I've ever owned. VP is on 2nd replacement at 150,000 mi. AirDog has been on since 120,000 my. I bought it at 110K. You pay your $$ & take your chances.
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From: In Oroville, Ca., same house for past 46 yrs!
If you go with a 24v then make sure it isnt the infamous "53" block casting. 03's didn't come with them unless someone swapped in one I think. Like it was said earlier, the 24v later models are plug and go chip stuff but I can more quickly tune my diesel with my laptop than any wrench could. Just a thought.
Also, if the other states follow Kalifornia with the smoke crap then anything after '98 will fall under their scrutiny probably.
I have over 188000 miles on mine and all I've done is eliminate the stock lift pump (at 100000 when warr ended) and hung on a couple of Holleys and have had no trouble since. I've only put tires on it and the usual oil and filter changes. Oh, once when I drag raced a Mustang thru town I toasted the forward clutches but with $200 in parts I fixed that little issue. LoL No problems since then so maybe I got a good one.
Also, if the other states follow Kalifornia with the smoke crap then anything after '98 will fall under their scrutiny probably.
I have over 188000 miles on mine and all I've done is eliminate the stock lift pump (at 100000 when warr ended) and hung on a couple of Holleys and have had no trouble since. I've only put tires on it and the usual oil and filter changes. Oh, once when I drag raced a Mustang thru town I toasted the forward clutches but with $200 in parts I fixed that little issue. LoL No problems since then so maybe I got a good one.
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If you go with a 24v then make sure it isnt the infamous "53" block casting. 03's didn't come with them unless someone swapped in one I think. Like it was said earlier, the 24v later models are plug and go chip stuff but I can more quickly tune my diesel with my laptop than any wrench could. Just a thought.
Also, if the other states follow Kalifornia with the smoke crap then anything after '98 will fall under their scrutiny probably.
I have over 188000 miles on mine and all I've done is eliminate the stock lift pump (at 100000 when warr ended) and hung on a couple of Holleys and have had no trouble since. I've only put tires on it and the usual oil and filter changes. Oh, once when I drag raced a Mustang thru town I toasted the forward clutches but with $200 in parts I fixed that little issue. LoL No problems since then so maybe I got a good one.
Also, if the other states follow Kalifornia with the smoke crap then anything after '98 will fall under their scrutiny probably.
I have over 188000 miles on mine and all I've done is eliminate the stock lift pump (at 100000 when warr ended) and hung on a couple of Holleys and have had no trouble since. I've only put tires on it and the usual oil and filter changes. Oh, once when I drag raced a Mustang thru town I toasted the forward clutches but with $200 in parts I fixed that little issue. LoL No problems since then so maybe I got a good one.
Coming from someone who has a p-pumped 24v, I'd still take the 12v over it. P-pumped 24v is unique (relatively), but the 12v is still much cheaper to upgrade due to valve train, and has a more robust valve train.
I have a short box Club Cab '98 12-valve 2wd and used to have a '01 HO of the same configuration, so I can give you some input. Comparing the two:
The '01 got slightly better MPG empty, considerably better towing
The '98 is quieter and doesn't tire you with constant chatter on long trips. . don't hear any chatter in the cab above 50 mph or so.
The '01 was a better puller and less smoky (if you like smoke go with 12v)
The '98 engine temps run cooler but EGT runs a bit higher when pulling
Both were about equal for reliability and repairs (but the '98 has higher miles)
Another comment, I definitely like the Club Cab better than the QC. . . the cab of my '98 feels much stronger and the truck feels much tighter at 204,000 miles than my '01 QC did at 20,000.
You can get more power for less $$$ out of a 12-valve up until the mid 300s HP level, but then you start running into issues like limited airflow & excessive EGT which you have to deal with if you want to start making serious power. You can go higher HP on a 24V before you run into the same airflow issues.
The '01 got slightly better MPG empty, considerably better towing
The '98 is quieter and doesn't tire you with constant chatter on long trips. . don't hear any chatter in the cab above 50 mph or so.
The '01 was a better puller and less smoky (if you like smoke go with 12v)
The '98 engine temps run cooler but EGT runs a bit higher when pulling
Both were about equal for reliability and repairs (but the '98 has higher miles)
Another comment, I definitely like the Club Cab better than the QC. . . the cab of my '98 feels much stronger and the truck feels much tighter at 204,000 miles than my '01 QC did at 20,000.
You can get more power for less $$$ out of a 12-valve up until the mid 300s HP level, but then you start running into issues like limited airflow & excessive EGT which you have to deal with if you want to start making serious power. You can go higher HP on a 24V before you run into the same airflow issues.
I love my 12 valve, and have no desire to go any other route. That being said, if the deal was right, I'd take either one (other than a 53 block). There are plenty of both out there still racking the miles up. I don't have a modded engine, and I don't tow heavy- so, either one suits me fine. Your needs and style will help determine which route to go.
In the meantime, while you decide, no reason not to keep your eyes open for a 98 12 valve QC- might as well aim high. It would probably have the best resale value...
In the meantime, while you decide, no reason not to keep your eyes open for a 98 12 valve QC- might as well aim high. It would probably have the best resale value...
If you want the quad cab with the rear doors, you appear to be aware that your only choice for a 12 valve is the 98 model year. I searched for one of those for about a year without success, even going so far as to offer a $100 finder's fee on one forum if someone could locate one for me. I eventually bought a 24 valve and have been pretty happy with it.
If you can find a '98 12 valve quad cab, jump on it. Don't hold your breath though.
Mike
If you can find a '98 12 valve quad cab, jump on it. Don't hold your breath though.
Mike
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