1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Who needs a EGT Gauge when you have a hand

Old Jun 28, 2005 | 02:21 PM
  #16  
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From: Branchville, Alabama
Well guys, looks like the methods that you use, cardboard, grease, removal, magnets, holy water, etc, do work. I have never heard of a turbo going bad from drilling the hole since I have been on the board. Think that was in 2001 or 2002. Looks like you all have the problem solved, I just wonder if there was a problem. Chips would just blow through the turbo at start up.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 02:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Brighton, CO
Logic and common sense tell us that that is most likely true. That *most likely* nothing will happen. But we just can't help playing the "What If" game! A couple minutes with grease or a magnet or a vacuum* or loosening the bolts is waaay better than buying a new turbo...although...I have been looking at one of those fancy-schmancy hybrids!

*I did have a friend that rigged up some complicated vacuum system to suck the shavings out.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 04:26 PM
  #18  
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From: New Holland, PA
Originally posted by fearthedeere
Speakin of manifolds how do u change gaskets do you have to take it all the way off. I blew a couple the other day joy riding after turbo upgrade. also im leakin exhaust where the down pipe connects to the housing. what do i do to fix that.
If you are talking about where the manifold connects to the head, yes it all has to come apart. The downpipe leak is likely due to the flange being slightly misaligned. Loosen the clamp and the downpipe bracket on the bellhousing, make sure everything is lined up, and then retighten the clamp annd the downpipe bracket (in that order).
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 04:29 PM
  #19  
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From: New Holland, PA
The best advice I've read on drilling and tapping the manifold while leaving the turbo on is this:

Drill and tap. Remove the air intake hose from the turbo and start the eingine. Watch to see if the turbo spins. If it is stuck, stop the engine and rotate the turbo backward to free the stuck chip. Restart and make sure the turbo spins.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 08:18 PM
  #20  
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From: Tampa, FL
I have one more question...

When wiring up the red and black wire on an autometer gauge, it says:

To 12V (+)
positive
Good Ground
Red
Black

So the red is to go to a positive 12V, but it doesn't say if it should be swtiched or not. I mean, should I wire it to a "always on", or just when the ignition is on?

I'm not sure it matters, but I just thought I would ask. Either way is easy enough.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #21  
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From: New Holland, PA
You want it switched.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 09:03 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by wannadiesel
You want it switched.
dag nabit. I already wired it to always on

I'll switch it around
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 01:10 AM
  #23  
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From: Fair Oaks CA
I taped up my exhaust pipe with very thick plastic and run the engine while drilling the manifold and tapping. just be sure to wear a face mask..... the chips and shavings will smack you right in the face when that is the only available outlet for exhaust.
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 08:30 AM
  #24  
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From: Katy, TX off north Mason Road.
You cant suck shavings into the engine. Its on the exhaust side. If anything you will just blow the shavings out the exhaust turbin. Big shavings could bing up and get stuck, but smaller ones should pass right out.
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 12:23 PM
  #25  
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From: Tampa, FL
yeah... i didn't mean specifically the engine... engine components

I got most of the shavings out with my magnatized screwdriver.

No known problems at this point
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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Shavings can still kill the exh. turbine wheel on the turbo , it doesnt take much to do and you can not inspect that portion of the turbine without removing the turbine housing.
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