I hooking up my Autometer boost and pyro and was wondering where the best place to get power and ground?? thanks

 

I took off the knee board plastic under the steering wheel column. Open up the fuse box to the side and start testing for fuses that come on when the key is turned on, you could tap into that line, then also there is a line that powers up when the lights turn on, you will need both, then ground to any of the screws that are screwed into the metal framework at the bottom where the the knee guard is mounted.

 

There was an an un-used 3-pin flat connector under the dash near the e-brake pedal with switched 12v I have powering my gauges. I think maybe it was for cruise control that was not an installed option on my truck.

Be careful about tapping into the fuse box. The electrics in these trucks are not known to be all that robust, so overloading a circuit is always a possibility, especially the headlights. I normally run new power and ground wires directly from the battery and to the body/frame with appropriate fuses and relays for anything I add.

 

Don't expect your pryo to work if you do not ground it to the battery directly. I grounded mine to the body ( cab ) and any power usage would throw the pryo into fits. I called autometer and they said to run the ground directly to the battery. FIXED.

 

thanls for the heads up did you just power it though the fuse panel cigarette lighter? Ace ill have to look for that plug

 

I took a test light and found wires that had the appropriate power at the appropriate times and then scotchloked right into the wire. I also grounded to the metal under the kneeguard.

 

I had mine grounded to the a-pillar for a while and at night with the lights on the pyro would move like an equalizer with the bass of the song that was on.............quite annoying!

 

I don't remember where I hooked in my 89. Just a switched power source. It needs to turn off and on with the ignition switch. On my 93 I powered all of my gauges off from the tach supply plug. That is also where I pulled the power for the illumination of the gauges.

 

Exactly!!!!!!!!!

 

Thank guys! I just went for a test run at night and the Autometer Z series are sweet and look excatly like the OEM gauges day and night!!! Id highly recommend them BTW i could only get about 21 psi max boost? IS that about right for what i have in my sig??

 

With stock I/C injectors, that sounds about right. You haven't played with the fuel screw right? Just the DennyT pin and 16cm housing?

 

true i did this to
and the DRK BLUE wire going to the ignition switch is good switched power
and the BLACK YELLOW on the marker light circuit for lighting of your gauge

 

that is correct thanks

 

When I installed the gauges in the dash pod I made the wiring harness with a 14-gauge ground wire for the returns on my Pyrometer and Voltmeter and a smaller lead for the illuminating LED's (of course the Boost needs no return), where the opposite end is grounded to a central point above the accelerator pedal, under this same lead there is a 6-gauge wire to the battery (-)
And then I also supplied the switched power with a 14-gauge wire that is connected to an auxiliary tap from my fuse panel. The accessory side of the fuse panel is switched through a 70-amp Bosch relay directly through a 4-gauge battery buss, so when the ignition is switched to ON all of the gauges will power up including the LED's
Connected this way my Voltmeter will read the available voltage at my fuse panel.
To the untrained eye it would be a nightmare to follow my wiring.
Jim

 

I tapped the power at the radio fuse and grounded directly to the engine block, which by the way is where Autometer recommended to me. Directly to the battery would be a better location for the ground but I haven't had a problem in the two years this pyrometer has been installed. I bought the Phanthom II series with the white face. They are very bright compared to incadesent bulbs.