Where should I set the toe-in?
#2
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Book says range of -.05 to +.45 degrees with a preferred reading on +.20 degress. There is also a note down here about caster and how it pertains to wander. More caster helps wander but too much makes there steering lighter which is less stable in corners. On 4x4 this is only adjustable with shims. Factory says if its out of spec, replace the parts. But they may not take into account the springs sag over time and MAY affect caster when they do. So shimming that could also help but it is more likely its more likely a toe in or out issue.
#4
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#5
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Thanks, I will go for 1/16+. I replaced the dana 44 with a 60 on my rc. The 44 had shot ball joints and u-joints. The 60 has new bushings and one new king pin bearing. It did drive nice considering the short wheel base, now it is pretty twitchy.
#6
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DNR_Customs isn't just his screen name, it's his business. Check him out in Diesel Power magazine. He's immaculately restored a few of these old Dodges, so I'm sure his front end is A1.
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Just because you do body work doesn't necessarily mean you can do alignments.
I was answering Trooperthorns post.
#10
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Well, I usally set them at 1/2" and havent had a problem.. But, I don't have a alignment rack. I use 2 4' levels sitting on roller seats!! And a floor jack keeping the wheels of the ground, it isn't perfect but it works for me. But I always reccomend to take it in to a PROFESSIONAL!!
I just go by what my uncle told me was a good rule of thumb, he's been doing it for 20 years.
But, If someone has the correct specs. I would love to learn.
BTW, my tires have 56k on my mega and will get about 10-15 more and my 92 has 10k and look like brand new.
And I don't specialize in body work.. Actually hate it!!
I just go by what my uncle told me was a good rule of thumb, he's been doing it for 20 years.
But, If someone has the correct specs. I would love to learn.
BTW, my tires have 56k on my mega and will get about 10-15 more and my 92 has 10k and look like brand new.
And I don't specialize in body work.. Actually hate it!!
#11
I usually go for the 1/16th to 1/8th but make sure I back the truck up and roll ahead every time I measure. It loads the front end like it will be while driving down the road. If your doing it this way its not going to be exact anyway so its a crap shoot. I actually sent my wifes Jeep to the shop for an alignment. 40 bucks and its done right. I think thats the first straight axle I have ever had that I had someone else do it.
#13
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Check out this link,
http://www.automedia.com/Align_It_Yo...cr20021201ay/1
I think I will give my uncle a call and tell him he is full of BS!! I will try and adjust one of my trucks and see if there is a difference. Im gonna try an 1/8th
http://www.automedia.com/Align_It_Yo...cr20021201ay/1
I think I will give my uncle a call and tell him he is full of BS!! I will try and adjust one of my trucks and see if there is a difference. Im gonna try an 1/8th
#14
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I tie a string through the rear tire, set my steering wheel straight, and then pull the string forward. Have it touch the back of the front tire, then let the front of the string sit off a "bit"... doesn't work on a dually though.
#15
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Thanks for the add'l info. Soot4brains has a great answer, but I have no easy way, without using trig functions, to measure the degrees. DNR and RickCJ are really not that far off if RickCJ is measuring off the wheel like I do. My points of measure are about 15 inches appart. With DNR's method and my 37" tires my points of measure would be well over double that. 1/8 inch my way could be 3/8 inch his way. I appreciate all your answers. It all helps, for instance, I forgot about rolling the truck to release load/preload. Thanks Ritchie. dzl damon, I don't think your system would work for me, if I understand it correctly because my front end tracks about two inches wider than the rear.