Building up my VE motor and slapping it in my ford.

o-rings and porting are out of the question. I can't afford porting and there's no room to warrant o-rings because I can't afford compounds and there's no room under the hood with the AC box right there...

What's done or getting done:

60# valve springs
3800 spring
high pressure lift pump and 97 ppump fuel filter regulated to 18PSI (unless someone wants to suggest a relaible method of retaining that pesky front seal) and the ford fuel lines (3/8" I think)
KDP
Full upper and lower end reseal
jumping a tooth of timing
181/210 hamilton cam and retainer
rebuilt VE with my own grind on the fuel pin
M&H timing spacer
ATS Manifold
A1 studs with a decked block and head. It'll be as flat as can be!
ford 7.3 intercooler with 3" cooler pipes.

Currently running the old DDP4 injectors. I will probably be going to 7x.014 (flow same as 6x15) tips in my stock injectors
s362/65/14

I will be putting the truck on the dyno and tuning the timing and fuel screw while on the dyno to get it right.

What else might be a good add-on? And no I won't run a FASS or airdog. I want a fluidampr but it can be added later very easily.

Anything else? turbo/manifold blanket?

 

Well since the head is off I'd at least gasket match the head and manifold. Green lock tite holds the front seal in well.

I didn't read about the rest of the drive train.....what's it gonna be?

I think wrapping the manifold and turbo will be a decent idea.
Seems like you have most bases covered while not going for full all out power.

 

I ditched the Dodge-specific exhaust manifold in favor of a standard 90* vertical top-side centered outlet manifold.

That little improvement gave me worlds of A/C clearance compared to what I had with the Dodge manifold.


Some have gotten by with simply flipping the Dodge manifold.

 

I've also decided on using blue loctite on the tappet cover bolts and pan bolts so they don't rattle loose and cause premature leaks. I'm so sick of leaking motors...
And of course the timing case bolts.

BK, that's a great idea for someone running compounds but I do have enough room there for what I'm doing so I'll leave it.

93, what do ya mean rest of the drivetrain? It's the ford in my sig. It'll be the built NADP 4r100 with ford t.case. ford sterling 10.5" rear and the ford application d50 front. Both axles are beefy but the LSD in the rear sucks. I miss my dodges d70 LSD...

Once I'm done on the dyno I'm hoping to be around 400hp/800+ tq. I don't think it's unrealistic. So long as I'm flowing enough fuel.

Do you think green locktite would be reliable enough to not have a failure any time soon. once the truck is done it's going to be my only source of wheels. I've read guys using the red locktite too.

oh and of course I'm running the ford intercooler with 3" cooler pipes. I'll eventually run a 3" intake horn too but the stocker will work for now for me.

 

o-ring the head while its off....its not much ...like $300.

save your money on other stuff.


NEW cam with retainer bolt.good idea

valve springs are usless unless you have a exhaust brake......that ve does not spin enough IMHO i dont really notice my 3600 spring

ATS manifold well unless yours is cracked id spend money elsewhere........its not much performance gain for the money...
id buy water/meth instead especially with big sticks
timing spacer studs and jumping a tooth on the pump...PS intercooler all good ideas

 

If a local shop did o-rings I'd probably go ahead and do it, but nowhere around here does it. I'd have to ship it somewhere, and with what freight costs are like in canada It'd be too much money for it to be worth it for me. My original thought on that was the same as yours. From everything I've read it seems studs alone with a flat block and head should reliably hold 50psi anyway and I can't really see myself pushing that much with a hamilton cam on a VE with a single.

ATS manifold has been purchased already. I got a good deal on it so why not. Most guys say it helps a little with spoolup and should drop egts 50-100f. And I seriously think my manifold has shrunk too much to get it back on anyway

valve springs are already purchased too. They were supposed to go on my ppumper but that motor ended up having a junk head. I mean I could ppump the VE motor but I like the little VE. And I have a spare VE pump so if one craps out I can get it up and running again right away without down time.

 

pay for shipping one way illpay the other.

sell me your p-pump setup and ship it and your head and ill ship back your head done here by the guy that is going to do mine.PDR spec
pm me if you want some info.