What camper shell?
What camper shell?
I'm looking at getting a camper shell for my W250. I'm not sure what brand is worth looking at. Or is there any models for other trucks that would fit our trucks?
I have the Leer Model 100 camper shell and am happy with it.
It has been repainted the same color as the truck.
When you install it onto the bed do not use the rolls of sticky backed foam you can get at Home Depot because the constant pounding from the truck will cause it to squeeze out from between the bottom of the rail and the top of the bed.
Bolt it to the bed rail with at least 6) 5/16 bolts, fender washers and NYLOCK nuts, Do not use the C-clamps. I always see camper shells along the side of the freeway.
Where they install the shells they have a 3" wide molded adhesive backed gasket that replaces this and will cure the problem.
This stuff cost $2.00 a foot $40.00 and they installed it while I waited.
It has been about 3 years now and it hasn't moved.
Most of the parts are replaceable yet. I have replaced the front window boot and the rear window.
Rear window was about $175.00 installed.
Even in the worst rains we have had here there are no leaks inside.
I had a Stockland and the rear window always leaked.
BTW are you looking for a New or a Used one?
Jim
It has been repainted the same color as the truck.
When you install it onto the bed do not use the rolls of sticky backed foam you can get at Home Depot because the constant pounding from the truck will cause it to squeeze out from between the bottom of the rail and the top of the bed.
Bolt it to the bed rail with at least 6) 5/16 bolts, fender washers and NYLOCK nuts, Do not use the C-clamps. I always see camper shells along the side of the freeway.
Where they install the shells they have a 3" wide molded adhesive backed gasket that replaces this and will cure the problem.
This stuff cost $2.00 a foot $40.00 and they installed it while I waited.
It has been about 3 years now and it hasn't moved.
Most of the parts are replaceable yet. I have replaced the front window boot and the rear window.
Rear window was about $175.00 installed.
Even in the worst rains we have had here there are no leaks inside.
I had a Stockland and the rear window always leaked.
BTW are you looking for a New or a Used one?
Jim
i take it this is an after the paint work photo. looks better than new. i have had c clamps on my aluminum canopy for more than 15 years saw that one had fell off the other day so i climbed on up there and reinstalled it. just bolt it on i won't clamp another one.
I wish I could do pictures.
We bought one used, to go on the wife's truck.
It is good as new; I answered a classified ad and found it ten miles from the house, bought it for $175 cash; untelling what it would cost new at a dealer.
There are pictures of several like it in the galleries.
It is even with the cab at the forward end, the aft being about eight inches taller, sort of aerodynamic looking, with lots of glass.
The picture in the above post of a LEER #122 is almost identical in design; except, instead of the one big squarish glass at the aft side, her's has two slanted narrow ones.
The color is even a close match, not perfect, but better than being way off.
Bolts are best; but for now, this one is clamped on with eight topper-clamps that require a 3/4" socket to tighten/loosen them; I don't think they are going anywhere.
This particular unit was designed for the 88-up style Chevys.
It is a perfect fit for length and fits the width at the forward end nicely; but, it tapers like a boat-tail bullet toward the aft, being about four inches narrower than the Dodge bed.
I cured this minor discrepancy by bolting some angle-iron inside the bed-rails and fastening the topper rails to that.
If I didn't point it out, I doubt anyone would notice.
We bought one used, to go on the wife's truck.
It is good as new; I answered a classified ad and found it ten miles from the house, bought it for $175 cash; untelling what it would cost new at a dealer.
There are pictures of several like it in the galleries.
It is even with the cab at the forward end, the aft being about eight inches taller, sort of aerodynamic looking, with lots of glass.
The picture in the above post of a LEER #122 is almost identical in design; except, instead of the one big squarish glass at the aft side, her's has two slanted narrow ones.
The color is even a close match, not perfect, but better than being way off.
Bolts are best; but for now, this one is clamped on with eight topper-clamps that require a 3/4" socket to tighten/loosen them; I don't think they are going anywhere.
This particular unit was designed for the 88-up style Chevys.
It is a perfect fit for length and fits the width at the forward end nicely; but, it tapers like a boat-tail bullet toward the aft, being about four inches narrower than the Dodge bed.
I cured this minor discrepancy by bolting some angle-iron inside the bed-rails and fastening the topper rails to that.
If I didn't point it out, I doubt anyone would notice.
This particular unit was designed for the 88-up style Chevys.
It is a perfect fit for length and fits the width at the forward end nicely; but, it tapers like a boat-tail bullet toward the aft, being about four inches narrower than the Dodge bed.
I cured this minor discrepancy by bolting some angle-iron inside the bed-rails and fastening the topper rails to that.
If I didn't point it out, I doubt anyone would notice.
It is a perfect fit for length and fits the width at the forward end nicely; but, it tapers like a boat-tail bullet toward the aft, being about four inches narrower than the Dodge bed.
I cured this minor discrepancy by bolting some angle-iron inside the bed-rails and fastening the topper rails to that.
If I didn't point it out, I doubt anyone would notice.

.With this it would also mean that I am gonna have to get to work on putting on the **** extendable mirrors off of the GMC on Moose also(basic 2nd gen mirror install).
Yes the picture was after the paint job.
I have had camper shells on most of my trucks I used them for work and my daily transportation and the Leer's were the best looking I think.
Last time I had checked the Model 100 was about $1,300.00 new without a kit.
I have always not liked the clamp on style but I am sure they have gotten better than the used to be. Stockland had some that were made out of the same laminated material the top was made of and I have seen some "old guys" clamp theirs on using 4" Chinese $.99 store C-clamps.
Years ago I saw a mangled camper shell in the middle of the freeway, about a mile down the way there was a pickup pulled over with 3 small kids in the back of the bed the man was walking back to find his camper.
Imagine the terror going through those kid’s minds as the top was being ripped off from above their heads and went swirling away. Probably thought they were headed to the Land of Oz
When I had my 82 C-30 6.2 diesel I had installed a roll bar in the bed of the truck under the camper shell that was bolted to the frame because sometimes my son would ride in the back, I had jump seats with seat belts for them to ride in.
Jim
I have had camper shells on most of my trucks I used them for work and my daily transportation and the Leer's were the best looking I think.
Last time I had checked the Model 100 was about $1,300.00 new without a kit.
I have always not liked the clamp on style but I am sure they have gotten better than the used to be. Stockland had some that were made out of the same laminated material the top was made of and I have seen some "old guys" clamp theirs on using 4" Chinese $.99 store C-clamps.
Years ago I saw a mangled camper shell in the middle of the freeway, about a mile down the way there was a pickup pulled over with 3 small kids in the back of the bed the man was walking back to find his camper.
Imagine the terror going through those kid’s minds as the top was being ripped off from above their heads and went swirling away. Probably thought they were headed to the Land of Oz
When I had my 82 C-30 6.2 diesel I had installed a roll bar in the bed of the truck under the camper shell that was bolted to the frame because sometimes my son would ride in the back, I had jump seats with seat belts for them to ride in.
Jim
Trending Topics
1. What was the cost to paint the shell, versus buying one already painted to match?. Trying to wegh that one out
2. The body shop said that in time it would flake. Were you told the same?
3. If you had to do it again, would you go the re- paint route again?
Jim, I am selling my D250 and was thinking about pulling off my Leer shell and having it painted to match the black W250 which I am keeping. It is white right now. My questions to you are:
1. What was the cost to paint the shell, versus buying one already painted to match?. Trying to wegh that one out
2. The body shop said that in time it would flake. Were you told the same?
3. If you had to do it again, would you go the re- paint route again?
1. What was the cost to paint the shell, versus buying one already painted to match?. Trying to wegh that one out
2. The body shop said that in time it would flake. Were you told the same?
3. If you had to do it again, would you go the re- paint route again?
The price was included in the paint job, I would have to look on my invoice and see if it was itemized.
2. The body shop said that in time it would flake. Were you told the same?
I think that might be in the prep work, they took the truck down to the bare metal but on fiberglass I think they stop at the gel coat but it has allot of primer on it I know. I just got it painted again after someone keyed both sides of my truck and there was a few spots on the roof where some bird crap burned the paint so they reshot the entire shell again.
I did have a spot on the truck where it looked like a fingerprint under the paint. But my paint job has a lifetime warranty against Flaking, Fading, Peeling and a few others and is in writing.
If it was done right it shouldn't be any diffrent than the paint on a Corvette or other fiberglass car.
Maybe there is an issue with the fiberglass shell buffeting and flexing?
3. If you had to do it again, would you go the re- paint route again?
Yes I would, When you buy a new one I think there is an option where you can get it painted from the factory in a factory color.
Jim
I would look for a used campershell. I have a gemtop off a 96 ford and is made of metal and fits about perfect. I believe your best bet is to look for a 1996 or older ford shell as the box is the same as the classic dodge 1st gen. I stayed away from chevy and 2nd gen dodge because of the box taper.
I bought a LEER XL100 when I bought my truck in 1995. I developed stress cracks in the upper corners. My shell does have a lifetime warranty and was sent back to the factory to be replace or repaired. They repaired the cracked corner and sent it back. I noticed that it's starting to develop the hair line cracks again. It's time to send it back again.
I hoped they improved the design on the newer models, something to keep in mind. LEER does honor the warranty to the original owner on the original truck but keep all the paperwork.
I hoped they improved the design on the newer models, something to keep in mind. LEER does honor the warranty to the original owner on the original truck but keep all the paperwork.
leer seemed to be the only company doing anything for first gen dodges, i went for their aluminum journeyman deluxe. only advice i have is get quotes from several dealers, one dealer told me he wouldnt take my old shell, another said they cant be painted. also dont let them touch your trucks wiring; they will try to hookup that brake light.
photos in the gallery and link below.
photos in the gallery and link below.
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