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valve body question

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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #1  
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From: Smithfield, VA
Red face valve body question

I feel like the relative that only calls when they need something but here I am.

My shift lever has been catching between drive and neutral requiring an extra effort to shift between the two. This morning it requires zero effort to shift between any gear. My best guess is the detent ball has left its position in the valve body. Best case would be the manual selector lever has moved vertically, if that is possible, and the ball fell out. Worst case is the housing the detent ball and spring ride in has broke and I need a new valve body. The truck is drivable and I doubt the broken pieces will cause a problem in the pan. I was wondering if anyone has a source for a good used valve body or is it time to upgrade the tranny for a 47rh. I put in a DTT torque converter and shift kit a couple years ago and this is the first sign of trouble since. The truck is drivable but I cannot feel the second gear position and I don't dare leave it idol in park or neutral for fear of it dropping into gear unexpectedly.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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My monie's on your Rooster Comb being loose on the shifter-shaft. .. . .

Name:  RoosterComb.jpg
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With time and wear, the comb gets loose on the shaft allowing the comb to move such that the ball pops out of place. No need for a new VB, It's pretty-much dropping the pan, remove the shifter and TV cables and levers.

The Parking lock rod needs to be disconnected from the comb. There's a C-clip just under the shifter levers. Be sure to back the neutral switch out some so it doesn't damage the plastic piece on the comb. With that, the comb-shaft assembly will slide down and out.

In a soft-jaw vice, hold the assembly such that you can tighten up the peening that holds the comb secure to it's shaft.

Then put it all back like you found it with the ball and spring in place.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Check here .. . . https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...37&postcount=3
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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not meaning to hijack but I have a similar issue.

Mine is easy (normal) to go DOWN (like from Park to Drive), but pops and requires more effort to go from Drive to Reverse. ALmost impossible to control a shift from Drive to Neutral without overshooting and going to reverse. You think it's the same thing, the rooster comb? I've had my suspicions since I read your article BC847. Thanks,

-Luke

Oh ya, Boatnik. If you only stop by for when you're in trouble, I'd have to say you've had a LOT of trouble since you're approaching 1800 posts!!
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:13 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
Originally Posted by dzl_damon
not meaning to hijack but I have a similar issue.


Mine is easy (normal) to go DOWN (like from Park to Drive), but pops and requires more effort to go from Drive to Reverse. ALmost impossible to control a shift from Drive to Neutral without overshooting and going to reverse. You think it's the same thing, the rooster comb? I've had my suspicions since I read your article BC847. Thanks,

-Luke

Oh ya, Boatnik. If you only stop by for when you're in trouble, I'd have to say you've had a LOT of trouble since you're approaching 1800 posts!!

Most of those were done before I retired. Now I don't have as much free time to spend on the computer. In fact, I don't know how I ever found time to go to work.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
I sure hope u'all are right about the rooster comb. That fix will only cost fluid and a gasket/strainer kit. Has anyone tried welding the two pieces together? I know some pretty talented welders that can TIG it nice.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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From: Buies Creek, NC
The TV cable connects to a shaft that goes through the rooster-comb's shaft (or more accurately, pipe).

I'd be a'feared I'd botch the fit between the two workins with the heat needed. Might be a bronze bushing in there looking at the close-up image above. Not sure.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
When I get into the fix, I'll look it over. I can always recut the bushing and pipe if necessary. There is a nice little Atlas engine lathe on my work bench that works very well for it's age. {1938} A couple of tack welds should hold and not distort the rooster comb that much. I just don't want to have a repeat of the same problem. I will start another thread when I decide to get out and under again. I need to get filter, gasket and fluid first. Once the truck is down, I am at the mercy of my wife or walking.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 06:55 AM
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Mine was hard to get into gear and when my transmission man dropped the pan he found the detents on the Rooster Comb were galled.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Mine was hard to get into gear and when my transmission man dropped the pan he found the detents on the Rooster Comb were galled.
I plan on dropping my pan Wednesday as the weather should be cooler by then. The truck drives fine except for the easy shifting. I haven't tried to kick passing gear in yet but If I need it can always down shift.
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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From: Smithfield, VA
Well, I pulled the valvebody and repeened and staked the rooster comb today. I had a devil of a time puting the "E" clip back on the park actuator rod. I fought that thing for four hours tring to keep the shaft still, hold the clip and push it back on without damaging the spool valve just below it while laying on my back. That is the first time I have pulled a valve body without help. I think it will be my last with the tranny still in the truck. At least until I build my new garage and put in a lift. The detent ball and spring were ok. It was just as everyone said. A loose comb. Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Glad you got it fixed.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 06:22 AM
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From: Smithfield, VA
Originally Posted by BC847
Glad you got it fixed.
Me too. It is very seldom that truck doesn't move. I took a part time job about 53 miles from here and it is getting more and more like a full time job. I cannot allow the truck to be down very long.
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