There is a ton of valve adjustment threads on this forum but nothing really has any insight on exactly what to do especially if your timing pin is not working or stuck.

Please let me know if this is proper, rotate the engine until cylinder one is equal and cylinder six is down on the exhaust side. Check the valves(Gap the intake valves at 0.010" and the exhaust at 0.020.")

TDC on cylinder 1
---------------------------
Intake 1, 2, and 4
Exhaust 1, 3, and 5
---------------------------

Once that is adjusted rotate the engine until cylinder six is level and cylinder 1 is down on the exhaust side.

TDC on cylinder 6
---------------------------
Intake 3, 5, and 6
Exhaust 2, 4, and 6
---------------------------

Please let me know if this is correct.

 

This is copy/pasted from:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

My timing pin has been MIA for years, I use the third method described here and it works fine.


Put the engine on #1 compression stroke, use the timing pin to locate this the first time then mark your harmonic balancer. Set the first 3 valves, skip 2 valves, set 2 valves, skip 2 valves, set the next valve. Rotate engine 360 degrees, until your mark lines up again, now you will be on exhaust stroke of #1 cyl., compression stroke of #6 cyl. Skip the first 3 valves, set the next 2 valves, skip the next 2 valves, set the next 2, skip the next valve, set the last 2.

Another short version:

Crank engine around with ratchet wrench and 15mm socket on one of the bolts that holds the pulley on the vibration damper, until # 5 (the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP! Adjust # 1 intake and exhaust valves at this time. Make sure the feeler gage just sides under the rocker arm smooooothly after you have retightened the lock nut. If its too tight or too loose, try to loosen the lock nut and the adjuster together until the lock nut is loose and then adjust the screw either tighter or looser and retighten them together again. It will take a little time to catch on to it, but you will. The intake valve is in the front and the exhaust is in the back on each cylinder. Now, turn the engine over until # 3 ( the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP. Adjust # 5 the same way you did # 1. Now turn engine over until # 6 (next in order) intake valve starts back up,STOP adjust # 3. Just follow the firing order back to # 1.

Another short version:

Here's a tip for doing valve lash adjustment that will make it go faster...

1. Turn over the motor with a 7/8" socket on the alternator pulley. One other thing, to locate TDC @ #1, watch #6 until it's at crossover (one rocker going up, the other going down at the same time). This is called the "companion cylinder" method. Adjust the proper valves, then rotate the engine over until #6 is at TDC, which means #1 will be at crossover. Gap the intake valves at 0.010" and the exhaust at 0.020."

When at TDC for #1, check: Intake 1, 2, and 4 Exhaust 1, 3, and 5

When at TDC for #6, check: Intake 3, 5, and 6 Exhaust 2, 4, and 6

 

I will try the third method, seems to be the popular choice.

Thanks

 

Just did this on our 91. Used the companion cylinder method. Don't need the timing pin. Also, for rotating motor use a 7/8 inch socket on alternator as stated, rotate counter clockwise. Works great!

 

I always just do one set at a time and work my way back. Roll the motor over til both valves are on the base circle of the cam and set, the repeat on cylinder #2 and so on.

 

I know it's been a few months since this was added to...but I want to do the valves on my '95...with 281K on the clock and I've only had it for about 3 months now I don't know if/when it was ever done. it has a bit of a lope to it at idle...not bad but noticeable...truck runs fine and I got 16.8 MPG out of my last tank with 75% of it in town.

Using the 3rd method listed above by looking at the rockers...are you wanting the rockers to be "level" with each other on #6 to put #1 at TDC? and then of course vice versa...

i understand 'how they work' with 1 moving up and one down but I want to do this right so I don't mess something up and I would rather do it myself than pay someone. Unless there is someone on here near me (Belleview/Ocala, FL) that would be willing ot help me out one time (beer can be involved).

 

If either one is moving, it's plenty close enough to adjust the valves on the companion cylinder. If they're eyeball equal, it's close enough to adjust half the valves per one of the above posts.

The base circle of the camshaft mentioned above is at least 180° on the cam, or a full engine revolution.

 

That's what I was wondering...if I can get #6 rockers eyeball equal and then adjust accordingly per the list above....then get #1 rockers eyeball equal and adjust the rest per the list above.

 

I've always had difficulty in getting things to line-up and engage the timing pin.

I've since got the engine where the pin would engage, and made a mark on the harmonic damper that lines up with the edge of the fan belt. It's much easier now IMO to simply line up the damper mark with the belt.

 

like pulltitbroke said, find #1, mark the crank for 3 120* adjustment stops, go through the firing order on each individual cylinder, youll know the cam is at its base