350 2wd replaced all u/joints with precision brand they last less than 3000 miles .When they are new and you remove the caps the shafts are black???
Any other brands that are better for h/d towing.

 

I used some Spicer U-Joints that lasted about 2 months, then used some Neapco Brute Force Premium U-Joints and they lasted like they were supposed to. The part number was 2-0054BF for my old D250. I'll be buying the Brute Forces for my 3500 2nd gen when it's time.

 

When I first installed the Cummins/Getrag, I bought the Precisions, because they were what the parts-store had; from the first trip, I had torque-vibration issues.

I had to order greasable Spicers; no problems since.

The old joints, before the engine change, were also Spicers, with hundreds of thousands of heavy cattle-hauling miles on them; they were still good.

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While we're talking U-joints, someone installed the greasable joints BACKWARDS , with the Alemites facing away from the shaft, on the son's truck.

No way can I get the grease-gun on them.

Is there some way I can grease these, maybe with a needle; or, am I going to have to remove them and turn them the right way ??

Thanks.

 

Spicer 5x-160 is the part number for our rear driveshaft u-joints 2wd and 4wd, 1410 series fwiw. Precision, I don't think so. I've never run anything other than Precision and Spicer and my vote is for the OEM Spicer.

 

Precision U joints are horrible. Never seen one in use that didn't have play in it. The only U joint I'll use is a non-greasable Spicer. Same ones that come in the 2nd gen shafts, and last forever. The seals on the caps are far superior to any greasable joint.

 

and i allways liked to grease mine ,youmean non greaseable are better???

 

I have had some success getting grease into misplaced zerks with the little needle fitting on the grease gun..

 

Well, sorta...the reasoning behind the non-greaseable is the strength of the cross not being core drilled(like greaseable are for the grease feeds). Since they are non-greaseable, apparently they utilize a better dirt/moisture seal to keep contamination OUT, and also keeps grease IN. Just be sure to remove each cap and positively fill it with a good high-pressure high-temperature grease and squish it back on till it pukes! I know, everyone's heard of over-filling the caps till the seals blow, but these seals are different; they sort of 'pop' into place. Remember this is the only time you CAN grease it. At least that's what the professional truck driveline rebuilders in Kansas City told me when I asked them for suggestions on ujoints. Inland Truck Parts, been there like forever, what they use and recommend is plenty good for me! dudes. So I went with Neapco non-g's also(correct part number listed above) from Advance Auto Parts. I think they were $15ea and have a lifetime warranty. My truck had 213k and still had OEM Spicers that were just beginning to show a spiral pattern(definitely means they are worn!), and the Neapco's smoothed out the vibration greatly. Now I can see cars clearly in my rearviews @ 60mph!! And as to the reversed zerks...yep, you'll probably need to turn 'em around.

 

I dont think drilling has much to do with streangth i liked the fact that the grease nipple was on the cap and easy to grease but they have to go,another went in less than 2000 miles they are made of harden chewing gum.i am sick of repacing even if they give new ones for free

 

Me too^^...'cuz ya still gotta do the work! That's why I took the advice and knowledge from experience of a well-known & respected driveline builder as to why the non-greased ARE stronger and appear to last longer, and went with them for my truck, but hey, this is America, you're free to do as you please, eh? Oh, I almost forgot, the black looking end you mentioned on the Precisions? I have seen that too, not sure that it may just be the color after heat-treatment, or may be a possible Teflon-type coating when new, but I too have seen that and at first thought 'What the heck??' I don't believe the Neapco were blackened, just a nicely-machined end(with a very nice snug fit I might add - I like 'em!).

 

Yep, I much prefer the non greasable joints. On the greasable ones, you can pump all the grease in that you want, sometimes it only makes it into 2 or 3 of the caps anyway.

 

I prefer to grease my stuff, so I use greaseable u-joints. Seem to be holding up to this point at over 1000ftlbs to the ground. Knock on wood of course.