Turbo Upgrade??
The wh1c with a 12cm housing had a killer whistle coming out of my 5" pipes. At idle and low rpm, it sounded awesome. I miss that sound, but had to trade it for lower egt's. Not sure how many r's the turbos are spinning, but it's a LOT. If you're after the whistle and don't tow, a 12cm turbo should do it.
Whistle can be heard through the intake and the exhaust. To get exhaust whistle, a small turbine housing and straight pipe work great. To get intake whistle, the MWE slot is what you're after.
I've heard the small turbos (like on these trucks) spin up to 150,000 RPM. Running the boost some people run with them (40+psi from a stock turbo) I wouldn't be surprised to see 200,000 RPM.
I've heard the small turbos (like on these trucks) spin up to 150,000 RPM. Running the boost some people run with them (40+psi from a stock turbo) I wouldn't be surprised to see 200,000 RPM.
So what is producing the long sought after whistle?
How is the MWE creating the extra noise compared to a housing without MWE?
The whistle is created by excess boost bleeding back into the turbo inlet. That's how the slot 'widens the map' of the turbo. A BOMBed engine will spin the turbo up faster at lower rpms, creating more volume leaving the compressor than the engine can physically take in. This backup of pressure then tries to go back through the turbo. The sound is often refered to as surging or fluttering. A MAP slot allows that excess pressure a path back to the inlet of the turbo without putting undue stress on the compressor wheel/shaft etc.
Would there be any dangers to using SCH 40 PVC or ABS to fabricate the pre and post turbo plumbing temporarily or even permanently besides maybe the under hood temps?
I think temps would be the limiting factor on the compressed side. Conservatively I'd say the material would have to be good for 275*F
About how many RPM’s are the turbo’s spinning 12CM vs. 18Cm at full boost?
all else being the same, the RPMs should be the same at the same boost. The comp wheel has to go around at X RPMs to make X boost, regardless of exhaust housing. It can be argued that the extra restriction of the 12 might weigh in on that simple equation, but I think for under 275RWHP, it's pretty reasonable. I had more 'overspeed' problems with my 18 than with the 12, due to the lack of wastegate. I was pegging 40psi with my 18 and current mods, where I can hold 28psi with my heavily ported 12cm.
Thanks Jim
How is the MWE creating the extra noise compared to a housing without MWE?
The whistle is created by excess boost bleeding back into the turbo inlet. That's how the slot 'widens the map' of the turbo. A BOMBed engine will spin the turbo up faster at lower rpms, creating more volume leaving the compressor than the engine can physically take in. This backup of pressure then tries to go back through the turbo. The sound is often refered to as surging or fluttering. A MAP slot allows that excess pressure a path back to the inlet of the turbo without putting undue stress on the compressor wheel/shaft etc.
Would there be any dangers to using SCH 40 PVC or ABS to fabricate the pre and post turbo plumbing temporarily or even permanently besides maybe the under hood temps?
I think temps would be the limiting factor on the compressed side. Conservatively I'd say the material would have to be good for 275*F
About how many RPM’s are the turbo’s spinning 12CM vs. 18Cm at full boost?
all else being the same, the RPMs should be the same at the same boost. The comp wheel has to go around at X RPMs to make X boost, regardless of exhaust housing. It can be argued that the extra restriction of the 12 might weigh in on that simple equation, but I think for under 275RWHP, it's pretty reasonable. I had more 'overspeed' problems with my 18 than with the 12, due to the lack of wastegate. I was pegging 40psi with my 18 and current mods, where I can hold 28psi with my heavily ported 12cm.
Thanks Jim
If I could find a good used HX-35 with a 16cm housing on it do you guys think it would be sufficient. I have been combing over ebay and other places for a used HX-35 and I think that is the direction I am leaning. I can pick up one of these for roughly the same price (maybe a little more) than the HTT upgrade. If I went this route, will the 18cm housing from the H1-C bolt up to the HX-35 if I decided to use the larger housing? Thanks guys for all the help!
Provided your present turbo is in good shape, I would recommend an HTT stage III over a used hx35. Reason being you don't really know what you're getting with an e-bay turbo--lots of folks have gotten burned and you'll never find one for the same or less than the stage III. Plus, the stock compressor on the hx35 doesn't flow nearly as much as the stage III, so for less $$, you get a lot more turbo, and you've already got the fuel with your larger non-ic injectors. The 18 is a better housing than the 16, IMO. Keep it, regardless of what turbo you use.
Provided your present turbo is in good shape, I would recommend an HTT stage III over a used hx35. Reason being you don't really know what you're getting with an e-bay turbo--lots of folks have gotten burned and you'll never find one for the same or less than the stage III. Plus, the stock compressor on the hx35 doesn't flow nearly as much as the stage III, so for less $$, you get a lot more turbo, and you've already got the fuel with your larger non-ic injectors. The 18 is a better housing than the 16, IMO. Keep it, regardless of what turbo you use.
-Steve
I am not doubting what you are saying about getting a HTT stage III over a used HX-35. But the prices of each are nowhere near the same, at least with what I have been seeing on ebay lately. less than $300 will get you a used HX-35. Correct me if I am wrong, but for half the price (of the HTT), you can get a bit of an upgrade over stock with a used 35.
-Steve
-Steve
yes, it will. a stage III wheel and housing (225 bucks) is capable of flowing more air, more efficiently than any stock hx35 ever put on a dodge truck, period. and, FWIW, the HTT upgrades for the hx35 only go up to stage III. The stage IV that is available for our h1c's will not fit an hx35 center section due to the snap ring housing retainer VS our v-band clamp.
Ahh I appologize. I thought you guys were talking about the complete turbos. Somehow I didn't come across just the wheels and housings in their site. I will look farther. Thanks for the clarification. I will get to ordering some new stuff then. 
I was comparing their $900 to the $250 ebay stuff.

I was comparing their $900 to the $250 ebay stuff.
I just emailed HTT tech support. Here is my email to them...
Dear Sir or Madam:
I have a 1989 Dodge non-intercooled Cummins turbo diesel. I would like to upgrade the compressor housing and wheel. After searching your compressor upgrades, I saw that you have a Stage III upgrade that will fit the 1991-1993 intercooled models. Do you have any upgrades for the 1989-1991.5 non-intercooled trucks?
Thank you,
Ed Beason
Here is the reply they sent me...
"Not without converting to an intercooled piping system"
So what do you guys recommend? It is obvious that they have a turbo upgrade that will fit my non-intercooled Cummins because some guys on here have them. Anyone know the specific model number? Under their section of the website that says "WH1C Upgrades" there is a Stage III that says it "mounts to your stock 12 valve 1991-1994." But, it also says, "It only bolts directly to the 91 trucks that came equipped with air-to-air charge air cooler." Will this one fit the non-IC trucks too? Also, What is the difference between the Stage III and the Stage IV other than the $50.00 price tag? Thanks guys for all the help!
Dear Sir or Madam:
I have a 1989 Dodge non-intercooled Cummins turbo diesel. I would like to upgrade the compressor housing and wheel. After searching your compressor upgrades, I saw that you have a Stage III upgrade that will fit the 1991-1993 intercooled models. Do you have any upgrades for the 1989-1991.5 non-intercooled trucks?
Thank you,
Ed Beason
Here is the reply they sent me...
"Not without converting to an intercooled piping system"
So what do you guys recommend? It is obvious that they have a turbo upgrade that will fit my non-intercooled Cummins because some guys on here have them. Anyone know the specific model number? Under their section of the website that says "WH1C Upgrades" there is a Stage III that says it "mounts to your stock 12 valve 1991-1994." But, it also says, "It only bolts directly to the 91 trucks that came equipped with air-to-air charge air cooler." Will this one fit the non-IC trucks too? Also, What is the difference between the Stage III and the Stage IV other than the $50.00 price tag? Thanks guys for all the help!
The IC trucks have a 2.5" v-band style compressor outlet. I believe the non-IC have a flat 2" outlet. It will require an adapter as G1625S said. I believe you can grind the lip for the v-band flat and then just clamp the 2.5" to 2" adapter on.
The Stage IV is a 60mm inducer and an 86mm exducer on the compressor wheel. Stock is 54mm/83mm and the Stage III is 60mm/83mm. The Stage IV will flow a little more air.
The Stage IV is a 60mm inducer and an 86mm exducer on the compressor wheel. Stock is 54mm/83mm and the Stage III is 60mm/83mm. The Stage IV will flow a little more air.
There are ways around the stock nonIC plumbing problems. You can get an elbow from either an FL70 application (3" inlet), or a 1stGen intercooled engine (add another square spacer to clear the valve covers) and turn it around. Put a turbo outlet elbow from the same style engine on there and add some silicone boots and 2.5" pipe and yer set.
Or.... Do like I did for the PDR HX35 on my old nonIC 91. I got a piece of 2.25" (I think) silicone turbo hose, and put it over the outlet flange of the HX35. It was a TIGHT fit, thought I was going to tear the hose for a while, but some PBlaster helped it slide right over. Then cut the stock silicone hose in half (make it 2 inches long instead of 4: or whatever). Mount the turbo on the engine. Clock the impellar housing around to meet the intake horn. PUt th esilicone hose over the stock 1/2 hose and clamp it all down. Held 40+psi for 3 years before I sold it to a kid from StLouis.
Daniel
Or.... Do like I did for the PDR HX35 on my old nonIC 91. I got a piece of 2.25" (I think) silicone turbo hose, and put it over the outlet flange of the HX35. It was a TIGHT fit, thought I was going to tear the hose for a while, but some PBlaster helped it slide right over. Then cut the stock silicone hose in half (make it 2 inches long instead of 4: or whatever). Mount the turbo on the engine. Clock the impellar housing around to meet the intake horn. PUt th esilicone hose over the stock 1/2 hose and clamp it all down. Held 40+psi for 3 years before I sold it to a kid from StLouis.
Daniel
The IC trucks have a 2.5" v-band style compressor outlet. I believe the non-IC have a flat 2" outlet. It will require an adapter as G1625S said. I believe you can grind the lip for the v-band flat and then just clamp the 2.5" to 2" adapter on.
The Stage IV is a 60mm inducer and an 86mm exducer on the compressor wheel. Stock is 54mm/83mm and the Stage III is 60mm/83mm. The Stage IV will flow a little more air.
The Stage IV is a 60mm inducer and an 86mm exducer on the compressor wheel. Stock is 54mm/83mm and the Stage III is 60mm/83mm. The Stage IV will flow a little more air.
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