turbo timer
I run the BD Cool Down Timer purchased from PDR. It works well.
- Allows engine to run till an EGT I select is reached.
- Should the above be unobtainable for any reason, the timer will shut down the engine after five minutes of run-time.
- Should your favorite roll of toilet paper try to steal your heap, the engine will shut-down with the touch of the brake pedal.
How ever . . . .
It was never meant to go on the 1st gen.
No big whoop, the Readers Digest version is . . . .
Don't connect the Controlled Power Feed as per the instructions (for 2nd gen and up just to confuse you). DO NOT connect the Controlled Power Feed to the Blue line that the PCM uses to run everything Fuel Cut-Off Solenoid included.
Connect the Controlled Power Feed directly to the Cut-Off Solenoid with a Diode connected in series with the Blue line from the PCM (Ignore the blue line to the KSB if you're auto). Install the Diode so as to block the Controlled Power Feed from Back-Feeding to the PCM.
As such, in normal operation, the PCM energizes the Solenoid and KSB as usual. When in the Timer Mode, the Timer powers the Solenoid and KSB exclusively as needed. I have my pyro powered by the timer as well. Makes setting the shut-down temperature easy.
NOTE: No matter who's brand timer you use, you'll need to run with this wiring scheme. Reason being, it seems the PCM normally operates by completing various circuits by way of switching on a ground. As such, connecting to the Blue line, which only makes sense as it seems to power everything, does not work. It in fact runs correctly for about 30 seconds and then everything dies as the PCM effectively grounds the Blue line regardless of the EGT. Oddly, no fuses were blown in my fiasco.
Hope this helps.
- Allows engine to run till an EGT I select is reached.
- Should the above be unobtainable for any reason, the timer will shut down the engine after five minutes of run-time.
- Should your favorite roll of toilet paper try to steal your heap, the engine will shut-down with the touch of the brake pedal.
How ever . . . .
It was never meant to go on the 1st gen.
No big whoop, the Readers Digest version is . . . .
Don't connect the Controlled Power Feed as per the instructions (for 2nd gen and up just to confuse you). DO NOT connect the Controlled Power Feed to the Blue line that the PCM uses to run everything Fuel Cut-Off Solenoid included.
Connect the Controlled Power Feed directly to the Cut-Off Solenoid with a Diode connected in series with the Blue line from the PCM (Ignore the blue line to the KSB if you're auto). Install the Diode so as to block the Controlled Power Feed from Back-Feeding to the PCM.
As such, in normal operation, the PCM energizes the Solenoid and KSB as usual. When in the Timer Mode, the Timer powers the Solenoid and KSB exclusively as needed. I have my pyro powered by the timer as well. Makes setting the shut-down temperature easy.
NOTE: No matter who's brand timer you use, you'll need to run with this wiring scheme. Reason being, it seems the PCM normally operates by completing various circuits by way of switching on a ground. As such, connecting to the Blue line, which only makes sense as it seems to power everything, does not work. It in fact runs correctly for about 30 seconds and then everything dies as the PCM effectively grounds the Blue line regardless of the EGT. Oddly, no fuses were blown in my fiasco.
Hope this helps.
While based on super high-tech NASA spec silicon semiconductors, the PCM sees the crankshaft turn with the sensor, it in turn switches on the alternator fields, cruise control, etc. That's about it I think.
.. .. . it's space age.
.. .. . it's space age.
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