I have been running with the key off so I could bleed the injectors from under the hood with my switch. So there is to be no power to the FSS when the key is off? And when the key is on it should have 12V...correct?

Just so I'm looking at the right unit the FSS is the round unit at the back of the pump? Not the one on the side down low? Both have wires running to them but which does what?

 

I really think I'm getting air in the system somewhere. I keep bleeding the lines and it keeps blowing bubbles at several cylinders. I just bled the system at the outlet side of the fuel filter bleed screw and I'm getting bubbles there too.

When I installed my new 2nd gen fuel heater I wasn't sure how tight to crank the threaded stud. I went until it was nice and snug. Wonder if it's sucking air in there?

 

The roundish one on the back of the pump is the fss the truck will not run unless you supply 12v to it it is what cuts the fuel off and shuts down the motor when you turn the key off.

 

OK checked and it's getting 12V with the key on.

 

Did you try disconnecting the grids and giving it a small shot of starting fluid?

 

other than that I do not know what to say other than maybe it is out of time or a problem in the pump.

 

I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions. Maybe I'll try a shot of ether and see what happens.

Timing should be fine, had the gears set up properly at TDC, then locked the pump. After I reinstalled everything it was all still lined up perfectly.

 

I'm really thinking you're getting air in your system from 'somewhere' at this point. Will the truck run at all if you hold the throttle to the floor when starting?

 

Sounds like you are getting air somewhere, And make sure that the lift pump is pumping fuel. If it won't start without ether, it won't run without ether, so forget that idea, you are obviously not getting fuel (without air). Also, the key has to be on to bleed the fuel system. Hope you get it going soon!

 

The key has to be on to bleed the injectors...Really! I did not know that.

I just tried a quick short shot of ether and it ran for a brief second and then just kept cranking like before.

 

No won't run with throttle wide open. Just stumbles like before.

I have a sneaky suspicion that my "New" piston lift pump is the problem. I've been having such a bad run with lift pumps I wouldn't doubt this is my problem.

I have a small clear fuel filter before my lift pump, and it won't stay full, or at least as full as it used too with my crappy old original diaphragm lift pump. So I think it's getting air into the lift pump and allowing the "prime" to drain back into the tank.

 

Like I said, it happened to me too when I converted to the 2nd gen HPLP. I'd ditch that mini filter as added insurance.

 

I remember reading here on the board about a situation where the fuel heater can draw air and still not leak externally. Maybe I didn't tighten down my new fuel heater enough? I went until it was snug, maybe I should have tightened the stud until it bottomed out?

 

Just to rule out the IP as a problem, I'd run a fuel line from the Ip to a clean can of diesel. The pump will suck enough fuel to make it Idle. Then that will tell you both if you have a supply problem or a problem inside of the IP.
Hope some of that make since.
Good Luck

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try that and see what happens.