Hey guys, my truck died on me for the second time yesterday. What has happened both times is that the oil light will come on, then it will start to run very poorly and it eventually dies. I have popped the hood both times and the dipstick says it on the bottom of the safe zone (it does burn some oil) and I can't think of another problem there. The first time it died I just gave it a little bit of throttle and it started back up (after it had sad for 20 minutes or so) and was fine for a couple of months until yesterday. If I try to start it it will either just sit there and turn over without firing, or it will start and run normally for a few seconds then die. When it does start though the oil light turns back off. I'm not sure what my problem is so I hope you guys can help me figure out a solution. Also sometimes my truck wont turn over in park so I have to shift it into neutral for it to start.

 

My oil light will come on every time I start the truck but turn off a few seconds after running, so I don't think it's that. It's running normally? I would try bleeding your injectors at first. Yesterday when I reinstalled my lines it was doing what you're explaining, but then again I don't think I'd be able to drive it a couple months like that. The gear thing I'm not sure about, unless it's just not all the way in park. Done that a couple times myself too

 

Sounds too easy, but make sure that the wire to the fss is tight and that the little nut on top is tight and that there is 12 volts to the wire when the ignition switch is on, here is a pic...Mark

 

Thanks for the quick reply guys, I just installed a new fss and there was no problem before but when I went to check the wires one of them sparked and I think I burnt up a wire that is part of the harness that sits on the driver side fender near the battery..

 

That is probably a fusible link that burned, look in the sticky for solutions. Try running a wire from the battery positive directly to the fss and see if it starts...Mark

 

You'll probably have to jump the starter with a big wrench or something.
I ran mine like that for several days, til I made a powered jumper harness to go between the ignition switch and its plug.

 

Alright I got some pics of what burnt up


When I put the key in the ignition with the door open the door still buzzes but the truck won't turn over at all and the message center (with the wait to start light) won't light up at all. All of the corrosion was there before too.

 

You're going to have to splice into the duck foot. That is a 40amp wire so you need to look up a fuse rated at 40 amps. 20 Guage @ 40 amps inline fuse is what I would use. Then trace that wire or run it to the battery.

If you need the truck to run ASAP, go to the auto market and solder the wire right to a fuse and or use some sort of connector that fits a 40 amper.

 

Thanks, I'm assuming the duck foot is the black piece of rubber that got a bit burnt right? I'm not in a hurry to get it fixed.

 

Yup, that is the thingy

I suppose you could just take a copper screw and thread that into the wire and butt connect it if you want to keep the original look. Other wise you'll have to design something.

 

Alright so it's getting a bit warmer out and I'm going to work on my truck (eventually) so do you guys think that only one wire was affected by this or do I have to replace them all?

 

Anyone? Just one fuse?

 

I am not sure about your question, but here is a sticky thread on the subject ...Mark

 

Thanks Mark, I'm just wondering what the easiest way to fix this is. Should I just cut the wire that burnt up on both ends of the ducks foot and attach the two by a fuse?

 

There was a recent thread about this, but I have no personal experience. You can buy new fusible link wire and splice that in, see here for what Amazon has. Hopefully some of the electrical geniuses will chime in...Mark