timb

When you get a chance, cut that bracket off that is in the way. Cummins put it there for looks I think. If you dont have the metric wrench for the solenoid, use a 15/16th it is the same size.

Jim Lane

Rear view of the pump showing the fuel solenoid and the seal plus the threaded stops.



Fuel solenoid takes 24mm wrench.


How does the engine sound when it is cranking?
Is there any possibility something had affected the engines crank/ cam/ pump timing?

Manual shut off lever is spring loaded to the front of the truck?

There are a lot of pictures of the VE pump in my gallery.
Jim

Fergavs

Thanks for the help everyone. As it turns out it was the fuel control solenoid. Pulled it out and removed the spring and tube and popped it back in. The truck fired right up first crank and ran for a sec then died. Fired it back up and its run perfect since. To fix this do I just purchase a new solenoid then re-install with original parts? I did test the solenoid for movement and it barely did anything. Aprox a couple thousands of movement when looking inside the solenoid and applying 12v while grounding the body.

Ace

You can get one for like $25-30 for a VW - same part. Link to an online source has been posted recently (couple months ago?).

bgilbert

This is good advise. It should be a part of every 1st gen owners preventative maintenance. As soon as you buy a new 1st gen or get a new injection pump get a cut off wheel or die grinder and cut the top portion of that bracket off. This way out on the road you can get a wrench at that solenoid in case it fails.

wannadiesel

Amen to that.

timb

Glad to see you got her back on the road. Now put a pull cable on that pump and never worry about the solenoid again.

BearKiller

Can some computer savvy kind soul take Jim Lanes nice picture and draw a nice red cut-line on whatever it is that needs to be sawed off, just so I don't saw off something I shouldn't.

Thanks.

Fergavs

On the back of the injection pump directly beside the fuel cut solenoid there is a thick (aprox 1/4" or 5/16") bracket. It is directly attached to the injection pump not bolted on. It is a little tight for space to cut it off, I was able to fit my plasma cutter in there. After cutting it there is a little more space but a special wrench is recomended to access the fuel solenoid correctly.

wannadiesel

That's how mine is done. Going through the big hole means less cutting.

BearKiller

Picture appreciated.

Thanks.

OldRam

My solenoid started shorting out many years back. I'd be driving and it would die for a few seconds then start up again before I'd lost even 10mph. I didn't have this website as a resource back then so I cost me about $150 for the shop to determine the problem and install a new one. Hasn't quit since.

Cowboy_Customs

First time I have read this post, sorry im still learning.

But, I dont remember mine having that bracket what so ever?

Possible some came w/o? Only option that truck had was a camper package, and Cummins. Maybe poor boys package this was excluded?

OldRam

I'm about to go on a fairly long trip and I know how the solenoid can leave you stranded when it fails. Fergavs, (or anyone else) can you explain a little more indepth about how you removed the spring and tube to make it run? I assume after you do this you have to manually shut it off on the pump, right?

Fergavs

Once you pull out the solenoid you will see these parts in the hole but be carefull they may stick to the solenoid just long enough to come out then fall into the engine bay. Just put the solenoid back in after removing said items (remember the o ring) and your good to go. Have to shut truck off at pump yes. Be carefull though this job would not be fun on the side of the road with the bracket still on the pump. Even with the bracket removed a crows foot wrench would be nice.