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Transmission ?? going towing

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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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Transmission ?? going towing

Okay I'm taking a long trip end of the week, and I don't want any trouble. Tranny fluid is starting to brown so I plan to change it. But what I really want to do is replace it all. At 240k I doubt its been done since the truck was privately owned. I don't have $100 for a flush ,not to mention with this kind of mileage it could be risky. So I want to do the next best thing.

1)Can I loosen the valve body to drain its contents?
2)How is this done?
3) is there a way to manually flush with the truck running?
4) Is this a smart thing to do. How is this done?

I've read the three different ways of doing this I just need specifics.
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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Opinions vary on this subject. I worked with an auto tranny specialist recently and he believed that most anything offensive will be caught in the filter and/or pan magnet and that dumping the pan fluid and changing the filter was enough for a tranny that is presently functional. Anything further (blowing out lines, etc) can be asking for trouble in a, ahem, seasoned tranny. If the fluid is pretty well spent, it's a safe bet that some hard parts are spent, too, and no amount of fresh fluid will bring those parts around. Having said that, it seems these trannys can take an enormous amount of abuse and just keep coming back for more. I'd say drop the pan fluid and change the filter for good measure and go drive it!
g
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 04:33 PM
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Yeah thats what I've been doing every 10-15k. Pan drop and a filter. It can brown pretty quickly when towing. I probly should invest in a aux cooler.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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When you do the fluid and filter change, get a drain plug kit for the pan and install it, then dump the trans a couple more times without dropping the pan. Once the fluid looks pink, you're done. Then the next time you change the filter it won't be so messy.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:12 PM
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You mean they make plug kits?

Why couldn't somebody tell me this earlier...
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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Now that you mention the plug, that reminds me that I have a welder! I keep coming up with ways to use the little runt.
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Begle1
You mean they make plug kits?

Why couldn't somebody tell me this earlier...
Yup. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Good info wanna and no welding. No problems with leaking?
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Maybe I'm just getting old and lazyer, but I don't think the cost of having the fluid changed is that much when you factor in the time, mess, cleanup and fluid. The local garage that does mine charges $65.00 if I bring my own fluid. The machine hooks into the coolant lines and uses the transmission's pump to push the bad fluid out. The old fluid pushes on two piston type accumalators in parallel displacing the new fluid back into the pan. Gauges immediately tell if the filter needs changing and it all takes a couple of hours and I don't have to get under the truck. I had it done on two vehicles so far and don't regret it at all. The reason I bring my own fluid? I am a Amsoil dealer. That costs $30.00 a year and I buy it at wholesale. I even help out some of my local buddies with their boats. I won't make a living at it but it saves me money.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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My problem is I live in a large city and its difficult for me to have anything done for a reasonable price. Back in TN my mechanic charges $15 an hour. I had him do all the service in march.

I went ahead and did a pan drop and filter. The gasket was changed in march so I reused it. I also use a large cardboard box with plastic in to catch the fluid.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 02:17 PM
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haha I didn't realize I wasn't posting under my username
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 02:23 PM
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I usually go out there at night and drop the pan and let it sit all night, it gets a bit more out. You could also crack the vb open a bit, it wouldn't hurt either. Should just be about 10 screws holding it on. You don't have to drop it all the way off
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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I've done the poor mans flush with no problems. disconnect the rear return line from the cooler and use a hose to direct the fluid to a bucket/pan. Start filling the trans with new fluid while the engine runs. Keeping doing this till the fluid turns pink and shuter down.

Or get a drain plug or aftermarket pan with a drain plug and drain the trans pan each time you do an oil change. My personal preference, a little more $$, but a new trans is allot more $$.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Flashdancr
Good info wanna and no welding. No problems with leaking?
I've put a couple in and they sealed fine. Just make sure to put it in a flat area of the pan. You don't get all the fluid out when you drain it, but it makes things a lot nicer when you drop the pan and there's just 3/8" of fluid in the bottom instead of getting an ATF shower.
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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If you loosen the VB it will allow a large majority of the fluid to syphon out...it'll drop to the midway point in the TC if I'm not mistaken. That's about the best you can do without major work...no fun.

If you want firmer shifting for this thing use Ford type "F" in it or Dexron
type II, then put in about 2-3 liters of straight nondetergent 30W oil. It works well, gives firmer shifts and the 30W provides lubrication for VB components.

bob...
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