smoky beast

my truck keeps twisting u-joints about once a month, I think it is because my current rear end (4:10) has a smaller u-joint, do yall think it would be smart to put my old rebuilt rear end(3:55) with bigger u-joint back in, to prevent this from happening again? all help is appreciated

flashgordon

Not to familer with this but why can't you just swap the rear yokes between the axles and us the biger yoke.......a....did you swap you3:55/dana 70 for a dana 60??

smoky beast

not sure what my 4:10 rear end is, it came out of an 88 3/4 ton gas rig, I was thinking about putting 3:55 rear end back in because I just has it rebuilt and for better mileage, but I sure like 4:10 gears for get up and go

flashgordon

If it's a gasser more then likely it a 60 and the yokes will not inter change
Chry never used a 60 behind a Diesel.

are you brakeing the cross of the joint or is it the bearing in the cap that keep getting loose?

wannadiesel

You are running a D60. Find a 4.10 D70 or put the 3.54 rear back.

mhuppertz

You have the Dana Spicer 1310 Yoke on that Dana 60 which is definately smaller than the 1410 that is on the Dana 70, but it still shouldn't break. All of the Gear Vendor Overdrive units use the 1310 and a bunch of torque have been run through those dudes. Something else might be wrong. Are you using all new hardware when you replace the failed Yoke?

Do you have a carrier bearing? Maybe it's about to go and putting a bind on the rear yoke. I assume you have the original driveshaft laying around there somewhere?

Mr. Plaine

I disagree a 1310 is not strong enough for a cummins. No way. People blow them up in jeeps all of the time. A 1410 is waayyy stronger.

D60 and D70 pinion yokes are all the same spline and seal size, just put a new 1410 yoke, or your old 1410 yoke on your current diff and use the stock driveline. No need to swap the whole axle. If it is set up with a crush sleeve and not shims make sure that you put in a new crush sleeve and check the torque and drag on the pinion for propper setup.

Ian-

Mr. Plaine

Oh i just read the post a bit better, my above solution would work for the joint fix, but i would still eventually swap in a D70.

Ian-

mhuppertz

A lot of guys are running Gear Vendors on this site with their Cummins' and 1310 yokes. I agree that the 1410 is much stronger though.

Ace

Now I am having 2nd thoughts about the Gear Vendor's OD. Why would they sell a part that is clearly weaker than the driveline it is intended to go into?

mhuppertz

I have an email into them to see if I can get the larger yoke, but I don't thing they are going to answer me because I have sort of bugged them too much!

I did talk to a rep some time ago about this and they swore that their 1310 yokes don't break, even on race vehicles. The Banks Cummins Dakota was running a GV when they set the land speed record for a pickup!

jrussell

Isn't a standard 1310 joint what comes stock on 1/2 ton gassers?

You can get much stronger 1310 joints from companies like CTM though. I would imagine a CTM 1310 is as strong or stronger than a stock 1410.

BowtiedCTD

i have been having the same problem but i have 3.54 D70HD. i got the driveshaft redone and they put in spicer u-joints. and the guy told me that if it ate this one they had stronger ones. so i would go to a powertrain specialty shop if i were you and tell them your dilemna.

flashgordon

when you get your drive line built, for the GV, just have them put a stronger slip yoke on it, then what comes with the kit!
My drive line buddy told me that it was a standered slip yok, off of a GM turbo 400 tranny.
I don't now what size or number yok it was or what u-joint it is but i trust his apinions and just let him do it!
what ever yok he used was to long and had to be shortend so it wouldn't stick to far out of the tranny(the slip yok part of it that is) when proberly installed
ok ramboling on again
just take it to a drive line shop shop or off road shop that build drive lines and have them build a better yok for the new drive line!

Ace

Well if I'm payin' $3k for a piece of equipment like that, they (Gear Vendors) had better supply the correct parts to suit my application. If not, they won't be getting any of my money. Looking around to cobble together a driveline in order to make their parts correctly installed/matched is B$, IMHO.