It's basically trading heat (EGT) for cylinder pressure. More efficient at higher RPMs. Always a tradeoff of some sort. There's going to be a fairly narrow range of timing with any given fuel/air combo that gives the best compromise.

 

I have read that advancing the timing lowers the reading at the turbo, but actually increases the heat in the cylinders.

But, when I think about it, the probe in the manifold is still seeing the temperature that is exiting the cylinders, so I don't know which theory to believe.

Why don't some of you more adventurous sorts bore a hole in a cylinder and read the temperatures at the source.

 

well im gonna turn it down, not shure if thats going to do it. i bought it from my brother, he lives in florida on his way here, to nevada. 300 miles into the trip it started smoking and th egts jumped 250 degs, he said when you stepped on it, it smoked out two lanes of traffic, he said it was never like that before, also a thing for you guys to know he ran alot of bio diesel through it, it think thats why the old injectors where gumbed up

 

where can i studdy up and learn more about my pump, its a rotary pump, a ve right or what exactly it is called

 

I got an excellent DVD and book from an E-Bay vendor for fifty-bucks that really helped me in my first and subsequent re-seal jobs.

There are several really good lengthy pictorial threads in this forum that show every piece and explain what it does.

I also got a Bosch book from somewhere.

The more info, the better.

 

Uhm it started this on its own ? it was running fine then started getting hot ? you kinda left out some need to know info there. Any time you have a problem try to cover every angle, lot of time advice isnt right if the info isnt right.

Start over and describe in detail to best of your knowledge the problem and how it started, even things like just cruising along or WOT.

 

i bought the truck aka moose, two month ago from my brother he was running smaller tires, and put the 35 back on when he came out here and he noticed it was running hotter and smoking more, so when i got it my frist diesel i knew not to run it over 1200 degs, and when i would get on it it would be at 1200 at 55 mph, so id back out of it, so a cupple of days ago i took it to a shop and they said i had two injectors bad i think it was #3 and#5 so i went to cat and they ordered me a new set from industiral injection in utha, i told them i didnt want hot rod ones, just a little better than stock so i pulled the old ones, they were pretty gumbed up so i dont think they spraying or working right, i installed the new ones took her for a drive and it was worse, id get on it and have to let off at 45mph, i know the tranny is slipping so in trying to find a flex plate to swap to the 47 hr. will a 99 flex plate work off a 48 hr? i talked to my brother and im going to turn the fuel screw out 2 turns, and see what it dose, im going to check my turbo and check for boost leakes

 

Hey guys,

MCclain_90 is my lil brother and its my old truck that he has.

The Problem started when I left Florida to Nevada to deliver it to him. After 500 miles I noticed she was running about 300* hotter at crusing speed, and up about 5 psi boots, and mpg was way down. She was also smoking realy bad. Well I thought some fouled injectors. Turned out there where two bad ones. My Secound geuss was the tranny, thats why there was a brand new 47RH that came with the truck. Now this truck has ran 35" tires for the last 150K with no problems, exept i had some stockers on it while i had the 35's on my 2nd gen. I put the 35's back on when i sold it. I think the load of the bigger tires back on pushed the T/C to the limit. I also told Mcclain_90 to check for boost leaks as well. I am at a loose right now.

The mods are:
94-98 head, ported and polished exhaust side
3K gov. spring
3 turns on fuel screw
smoke screw backed out
BHAF, now its a K&N
3 1/2 straight pipe.
All gauges.....

Normal driving info. was
70mph 5-7 psi boost
70mph 600* egts
0-70 full throtle highest EGT was 1100*

Now boost is 10-12 @ 70mph
EGT's 900* @ 70 mph
0-70 full throtle ( 1200+ @50mph )

Hopfully this will help on aiding in some much needed help. thanks guys.

Bob

 

It would smoke more with bigger tires due to the engine " loading " more. Also with bigger or ( better then stock ) injectors you might have made the egt issue worse by more fuel actually getting in the thing. With stock non i/c injectors in my 89 ,a S300 turbo, powerstroke cooler, stans 4 inch exhaust I still can get it hot without towing anything.

 

Richie,

Those befor and after driving stats where with the 35s. Its been fine with them on for 150K ( not the same set ). they where only off for about 5 months. And it started about 500 miles on a trip with the 35's back on. I think that the T/C got use to turning those 31's, and when the 35's went back on that stressed the T/C / trans, causing a more stressful load. But will a slipping t/c cause that much diffrence on engine load?

Bob.

 

Ya. I was typing when you posted your post. I type slow as hell. Didn't see your post till right now.

 

I would think a slipping torque convertor would ease egt's due to less power load on the engine. It most likly would add heat to coolant because of tranny cooler getting hotter fluid.

 

I've got a set of stgock Non-IC injectors that don't do me any good. they came out of a geood running truck that was rolled. If your interested in trying them to see if they help PM me back and we'll discuss it.

Gary

 

The fact that the boost is up is interesting.....still though, I see 700 degrees cruising, 900 degrees at elevation, and 1600 0-80mph. With a slipping converter, egts can still be pretty high. If the truck is fast enough to "drive out from under them" they can be controlled, but sometimes a slipping converter CAN contribute.....

 

sorry guys trying to find time to work on it. i work 10 on 4 off, and i just got done with front rotors and pads, ad removed