I ran across these two articles
http://torkteknology.com/news.php?newsid=5
http://www.torkteknology.com/news/7/...nlet-Line.html
Comments?
I would prefer to stick with a mechanical pump.
Better pump?

 

Interesting read for sure. That said I'm still going to run one. It flows enough to make 500hp on a p-pump truck and turn 4000rpm. I am only looking to rev to 3500 and make about 350 hp so it still covers my needs.

 

That is some good reading there now I got to find out how many gallons per minute my pump is. I thought I was doing good using 1/2" lines and all maybe i better reconsider what I did.

 

I'm considering it because I think I've hit the limit of the diaphragm pump.
Also? Any updates on part numbers?
I did a search and there seems to be more part numbers than parts.
Which is the correct pump number 393616 or 393620?

 

That is definately the article written by somebody who is preparing to sell you something. It is good to see the numbers, but I lament the lack of pump part numbers, and the lack of testing pumps with other springs in them. I love the way he uses the buzzword 'industrial'...the lift pump works the way it does because it is the easiest way to build in a robust, high-reliability, pressure regulator.
cheers,
Douglas

 

The thing I see in question right off are the engine RPMs he references, up to 4000rpm for example. I think most of us work between 1800 and 2200rpms.

 

That article is right about the restrictions in inside the tank & fittings in our fuel system. When I replaced the in tank filter in my truck I drilled the restricted holes out inside the tank & fittings (they were under 3/16") to the largest size i thought I could without ruining the fittings.

After this change I ended up turning down my full power & smoke screw to get back to my old settings. The amount of extra fuel smoke at high RPM (up to 3200 rpm) was dramatic, as was the extra power..

I'd like to see how much horsepower the stock lift pump would actually support given a proper size lines. Say, 1/2" lines & full size fittings.

 

The article does make sense. The smaller the tube, hose, etc., the faster the fluid will flow. Much like when you put your thumb over the end of a garden hose, you increase velocity, even though the supply pressure doesn't change. I could just be thinking aimlessly though as I'm fairly tired right now.

I'd like to see if simply changing hose and fitting sizes in a fuel system could make a noticeable and dyno proven difference in power since the pump, as the article says... would be working more efficiently. As Rampage said, change lines and fitting sizes to see what the pump can support. Maybe even on a stock motor just to see if there is an increase in performance to be had from doing so.

 

I'm curious as to what the gpm is also.
Does anyone know what the difference is in the two pump part numbers? The 393616 is the one that is listed for 94 to 98 12Vs. So were did the 393620 come in?

 

The 3933256 was replaced by the 3936320.
The 3936320 was replaced by the 4944714.
The 4944714 was replaced by the 4988751.

The spec on the 4988751 is 32-43 gph and 30psi.

 

it makes perfect sense. In other words, the real problem with our fuel delivery is the size of our hose. It's too small. So if you want to really upgrade the fuel delivery, upgrade the tank pickup and the hoses etc pre- IP, but especially pre lp

 

Thanks!

30PSI? I read that anything much over 15 is risking blowing out the front seal. What are people using for a regulator?

 

I was told that 3918076(HFP702) piston pump is used on the 4Bt and has a 8psi output and costs $63.25.
Was thinking of using it on my 1st gen which is stock, but I use a new mechanical LP about every 8,000-10,000 miles with B100.
Bruce

 

Why not bypass the mechanical pump with an electric pump and just do larger lines from the pickup forward? With the electric pump it regulates the fuel pressure on its own.

 

That's what I did with the Carter 4601HP. Didn't do any messing with line size though. I think I am safe from starvation issues at my power level( still have the tamper-proof on the power screw ).
cheers,
Douglas