Tappet Cover Gasket Replacement
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From: South Mills NC/Chesapeake VA
Tappet Cover Gasket Replacement
I've got a leaking tappet cover (side cover) gasket and lose about 1qt every 100 miles so I figured it was time to replace it. I looked for a tech article on this but didn't see one in the "How To" section. Can anyone link me to one or do I need to take notes and do a write up while doing mine?
It looks pretty straight forward (IP removal, fuel filter removal) but haven't looked too close to know for sure. Anyone have any advise? Special tools? Thanks
It looks pretty straight forward (IP removal, fuel filter removal) but haven't looked too close to know for sure. Anyone have any advise? Special tools? Thanks
I just did mine last month, and it is a relative easy job,
You need to:
1) Remove the oil filler off the front of the timing cover and first turn the engine over to bring the pump shaft key to 12:00
2) Tag and remove the injector lines.
3) Scribe an index mark at the pump base.
4) Disconnect fuel lines, throttle linkages then remove the linkage and rear pump bracket.
5) Disconnect and move all of the wiring harness out of the way.
6) Loosen the nut off from the injection pump shaft.
7) Borrow 2 bolts from the Grid Heaters and use them to mount a "T" Bar puller to the front of the pump gear and press off the gear, then remove the nut.
8) Remove the 3 bolts from the injection pump and remove the pump.
9) Remove the fuel filter.
10) Remove the fuel pump.
11) Remove the fuel supply and return lines including the "T" at the back of the block.
By now you should be looking at the side of the engine block.
12) Remove the side cover bolts and remove the side cover.
Replace the side cover gasket and the gaskets that go under the side cover bolts.
I bought mine from Cummins.
The entire job should only take you 3-4 hours to complete.
If needed, I have pictures of the entire procedure.
Other than your normal Metric tools you will also need:
1) 17mm Crowsfoot wrench. (to remove injector line nuts)
2) Set of “S” wrenches or Manifold wrenches.(to remove pump mounting bolts)
3) "T" Bar Puller (steering wheel puller from Auto Zone)
After I was finished, I used a gallon of Simple Green and a spray bottle and sprayed down the entire engine and underside of the truck and then pressure washed it at the local $1.50 Car Wash.
Good Luck.
Jim
You need to:
1) Remove the oil filler off the front of the timing cover and first turn the engine over to bring the pump shaft key to 12:00
2) Tag and remove the injector lines.
3) Scribe an index mark at the pump base.
4) Disconnect fuel lines, throttle linkages then remove the linkage and rear pump bracket.
5) Disconnect and move all of the wiring harness out of the way.
6) Loosen the nut off from the injection pump shaft.
7) Borrow 2 bolts from the Grid Heaters and use them to mount a "T" Bar puller to the front of the pump gear and press off the gear, then remove the nut.
8) Remove the 3 bolts from the injection pump and remove the pump.
9) Remove the fuel filter.
10) Remove the fuel pump.
11) Remove the fuel supply and return lines including the "T" at the back of the block.
By now you should be looking at the side of the engine block.
12) Remove the side cover bolts and remove the side cover.
Replace the side cover gasket and the gaskets that go under the side cover bolts.
I bought mine from Cummins.
The entire job should only take you 3-4 hours to complete.
If needed, I have pictures of the entire procedure.
Other than your normal Metric tools you will also need:
1) 17mm Crowsfoot wrench. (to remove injector line nuts)
2) Set of “S” wrenches or Manifold wrenches.(to remove pump mounting bolts)
3) "T" Bar Puller (steering wheel puller from Auto Zone)
After I was finished, I used a gallon of Simple Green and a spray bottle and sprayed down the entire engine and underside of the truck and then pressure washed it at the local $1.50 Car Wash.
Good Luck.
Jim
I am not a fan of the stock tappet cover. When I rebuilt my motor and did mine it leaked like a sieve on a fresh motor. I got so mad about it that I bought a billet tappet cover.
Now my billet tappet cover leaks on my second rebuild. I guess I didn't use enough rtv this time.
Sometimes, you just can't win.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
Now my billet tappet cover leaks on my second rebuild. I guess I didn't use enough rtv this time.
Sometimes, you just can't win.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
The last time I had to replace mine was about 5-6 years ago and I would certainly hope they would last longer.
Mine started to leak all of a sudden, I would stop and within 5 minuets there was a big puddle of black oil under the truck.
When I pulled the side cover I found the gasket was very brittle and broken right near the oil drain hole.
The instructions are to install them dry but the tech at Cummins told me to apply a bead of Good Quality RTV.
You also need to replace the gaskets under the side cover bolts and clean the baffle on the backside of the crankcase vent connection.
Gasket Pushrod Cover
Cummins Part # 3284623
I also replaced the gasket under the injection pump flange.
I wonder what makes the pliable rubber gasket so brittle that it will crack into pieces when you handle it?
Oil
Heat
Jim
__________________
Mine started to leak all of a sudden, I would stop and within 5 minuets there was a big puddle of black oil under the truck.
When I pulled the side cover I found the gasket was very brittle and broken right near the oil drain hole.
The instructions are to install them dry but the tech at Cummins told me to apply a bead of Good Quality RTV.
You also need to replace the gaskets under the side cover bolts and clean the baffle on the backside of the crankcase vent connection.
Gasket Pushrod Cover
Cummins Part # 3284623
I also replaced the gasket under the injection pump flange.
I wonder what makes the pliable rubber gasket so brittle that it will crack into pieces when you handle it?
Oil
Heat
Jim
__________________
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Bumping this back up, my tappet cover is leaking again and was brand new two years ago. I used a felpro, this time I ordered a MAHLE.. any difference?
Also, I read that you can use black RTV with the gasket for a better seal. I'm thinking this will get messy, what do you all think?
Also, I read that you can use black RTV with the gasket for a better seal. I'm thinking this will get messy, what do you all think?
Bumping this back up, my tappet cover is leaking again and was brand new two years ago. I used a felpro, this time I ordered a MAHLE.. any difference?
Also, I read that you can use black RTV with the gasket for a better seal. I'm thinking this will get messy, what do you all think?
Also, I read that you can use black RTV with the gasket for a better seal. I'm thinking this will get messy, what do you all think?
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