Switch for grid heater
I think they draw 120 amps a piece and there are 2 heaters. A 50 amp switch will melt down. Unless you are going to use the switch to control the relays then you will only need a small switch.
Are you talking about the solenoid or just a switch to activate the solenoid?
If you just want to turn it on and off manually I am sure a cheap 12V switch will do with inline fuse like 5-10 amp.
If you just want to turn it on and off manually I am sure a cheap 12V switch will do with inline fuse like 5-10 amp.
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i put a momentary pushbutton switch on mine so i wouldnt worry bout leaving the toggle on or someone else burning things up without knowing....if you use it to activate the relays you can use a small amp switch and hook from a power source to the relays..that way its only activated when your key switch is turned on...keeping you or someone else from burning or melting something inadvertantly also...hope this helps
I would use either a momentary push button or a spring return SPST toggle switch rated at 10-amps to control the relays.
If you are using the factory Air Heater Relay, one of the small terminal will be hot through the ignition switch while the other is grounded by the controller or the PCM on the later trucks.
Disconnect the Yel/Blk and Yel/Or push on leads from the relay and connect them both to one terminal of your switch and the other terminal goes to ground. (ground start relay)
I would use a DPDT switch and control both relays simultaneously with their own circuit.
The heaters can cycle independently
This will work only when the ignition is ON
This is how much current you will be pulling using both relays, the longer that they are energized, the more the wires will heat up

The heaters are rated at 200-amps each (400-amps total) but because of the resistance in the wiring harness they are limited to just over 200-amps with the heaviest loss being the 12-gauge fuse links.

The heaters need to be cycled on and off for 15-20 seconds at a time till the manifold air temp reached 60* or until the truck reaches 15-MPH if you are trying to replicate the factory control.
Holding the heaters ON for any extended period of time could overheat the elements and drain your battery to the point where your engine will no longer crank.
Explanation of the Grid Heater system.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm
I hope some of this information was useful.
Jim
If you are using the factory Air Heater Relay, one of the small terminal will be hot through the ignition switch while the other is grounded by the controller or the PCM on the later trucks.
Disconnect the Yel/Blk and Yel/Or push on leads from the relay and connect them both to one terminal of your switch and the other terminal goes to ground. (ground start relay)
I would use a DPDT switch and control both relays simultaneously with their own circuit.
The heaters can cycle independently
This will work only when the ignition is ON
This is how much current you will be pulling using both relays, the longer that they are energized, the more the wires will heat up

The heaters are rated at 200-amps each (400-amps total) but because of the resistance in the wiring harness they are limited to just over 200-amps with the heaviest loss being the 12-gauge fuse links.

The heaters need to be cycled on and off for 15-20 seconds at a time till the manifold air temp reached 60* or until the truck reaches 15-MPH if you are trying to replicate the factory control.
Holding the heaters ON for any extended period of time could overheat the elements and drain your battery to the point where your engine will no longer crank.
Explanation of the Grid Heater system.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm
I hope some of this information was useful.
Jim
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