1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Steering Shaft

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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 07:19 AM
  #16  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by tomd
Thank you NYTman! Thanks for the time posting, very helpful indeed. I bought the non lift shaft, but also noticed my column in the engine bay has a spring, I didn't see the spring in other videos, is this a stock set up? Should still mount up with the upgrade hopefully. Regards
Originally Posted by tomd
Bummer, I just placed the order a few minutes ago! arggghh and was not happy having to pay 25-bucks for shipping ups ground!
Great, hopefully the steering brace will work in this application!
Thanks Mark!
Mine has the spring as well. I think it's there just to keep the tension on the bushing above it, but I'm sure that others will chime in regarding.

The steering brace should reinforce the weak sector of the front frame quadrant. It ties the laterals to the side C channel, giving it more rigidity. The reason these plates (and the areas where the holes are in the frames) crack is from small, minor flexing, over and over again over time. Metal fatigue is the issue.....

Now if they had kept the Reverse Rotation steering design in effect, you wouldn't be dealing with this at all. Unfortunately, the RR design has it's limitation for steering performance (parking and tight radius turning) as it hits the tires if you turn the wheel too far, which is why (besides cost) it was changed in the first place.
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 10:05 AM
  #17  
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From: Englewood, TN
Smile

Originally Posted by NJTman
Personally, I wouldn't use the double u joint unit. Why ?


The engineers (albeit not the smartest bunch of monkeys) put the rag joint in there to absorb the flex-ation between the steering column (which is mounted in the cab) to the frame mounted steering gear. The rubber allows for bending / twisting / lateral or vertical movement between the end of the steering column and the fixed length of the steering shaft. If you install a solid u joint in there, you no longer have that ability to absorb the slop / deviation between the frame moving / cab moving that happens in our old rides..

Obviously, it's been used by many, but I like the idea that the rubber disc allows for changes in position.....

I know I'm late weighing in here, but the folks at Borgeson agree with you T.

Back in February 2007 (when I purchased my new shaft), the technician at Borgeson (Gil Evans, gil@borgeson.com) advised me that if the truck is not lifted, one is better off going with the single U-joint shaft (part #940) and thereby maintaining the vibration dampening characteristics of the rag joint.

I've been running a Borgeson shaft for about 100,000 miles now and it's doing fine. I will note that I had the Borgeson shaft partially installed and then had to remove it so I could get rid of a piece of weld spatter left in one of the rag joint bolt holes -- so the quality assurance at Borgeson ain't perfect...
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 01:42 PM
  #18  
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From: Englewood, TN
Question

Originally Posted by NJTman

Now if they had kept the Reverse Rotation steering design in effect, you wouldn't be dealing with this at all. Unfortunately, the RR design has it's limitation for steering performance (parking and tight radius turning) as it hits the tires if you turn the wheel too far, which is why (besides cost) it was changed in the first place.
T-Man:

I've assembled the components to change my steering to Reverse Rotation but simply have not yet had time to tackle the chore. Is your turning radius worse now that you've installed RR on your truck?

TIA.
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 02:11 PM
  #19  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by james1
T-Man:

I've assembled the components to change my steering to Reverse Rotation but simply have not yet had time to tackle the chore. Is your turning radius worse now that you've installed RR on your truck?

TIA.
Radius ? Relatively the same.

Performance ??

A whole lot better, as I had the gear box upgraded to a quick ratio gear. Made a huge improvement, in every respect. Integral stops removed as well.

The only issue is if you have larger tires which potentially can hit the parallel to frame drag link when turning right. My tires are stock sized with a 3" lift, so no contact issues at all.
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:02 AM
  #20  
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Removable rag joint?

Can anyone post photos of removable vs not removable rag joints on a 1st gen? I want to purchase my borgeson shaft today but I don't want to order the wrong one. This is what I see when looking at my Rag Joint
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:30 AM
  #21  
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It’s in rough shape but so am I… Mark
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:31 AM
  #22  
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Im having trouble getting photos to upload for some reason.

Last edited by Oran; Jul 18, 2024 at 11:33 AM. Reason: trying to add a photo but having techincal difficulties
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:32 AM
  #23  
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oh, yeah mine is different, its got like a flange and a hollow pin going through it on the column side.
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:34 AM
  #24  
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Mine is a ‘90. It’s pretty much original. Mark
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:38 AM
  #25  
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I had a bit of trouble too with the photo. I did a couple of tries but eventually it worked. …Mark
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:39 AM
  #26  
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:43 AM
  #27  
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That is different. What year is your rig? …Mark
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:48 AM
  #28  
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1993 W250 regular cab long box

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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:52 AM
  #29  
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Yes, the earlier ones were a bit different. I’m sure that one of these Dodge Cummins experts will chime in soon…Mark
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 08:16 PM
  #30  
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From: BC
Originally Posted by Oran
That's removable. Undo the four 12pt bolts. They're usually a fight. Penetrating oil.
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