steering coupler
steering coupler
I just put a new steering coupler on my truck and what a big difference it has made
. My wheel had a TON of play in it before and this took 75% of it away. So for those of you out there that have really loose sterring, this was a well worth while, cheap (20 bucks) and easy fix with great results. Of course if you have over 100K on the original steering box you'll still have a litte play
. It feels like I'm driving a Porshe now...ehhh...maybe not that good
.
. My wheel had a TON of play in it before and this took 75% of it away. So for those of you out there that have really loose sterring, this was a well worth while, cheap (20 bucks) and easy fix with great results. Of course if you have over 100K on the original steering box you'll still have a litte play
. It feels like I'm driving a Porshe now...ehhh...maybe not that good
.
I'll second that. On a 2wd truck rebuilding the coupler is a much better deal than the aftermarket shafts. The stock setup lasts a long time on the 2wd trucks because the shaft goes nearly straight into the box. The 4X4's wear the stock coupler out in no time because it runs at an angle.
When you talk about the "coupler" are you speaking of the part between the shaft and the steering box? I replaced the "guts" inside of mine last year and it did make a big difference,however now I'm starting to get some play again,Ive heard some guys say that you can drill out and put a grease fitting in the side of that piece and that will extend the life.What do you think of that idea?My truck is a 4x4 so should I do that or think about dropping the cash on a Borgenson?
Yes, the coupler is what you rebuilt. The Borgeson or Flaming River shaft is a much better setup on a 4x4 truck. As you noticed, the stock joint only lasts about a year due to the angle it has to operate at. A real u-joint will last pretty much forever.
I just put a new steering coupler on my truck and what a big difference it has made
. My wheel had a TON of play in it before and this took 75% of it away. So for those of you out there that have really loose sterring, this was a well worth while, cheap (20 bucks) and easy fix with great results. Of course if you have over 100K on the original steering box you'll still have a litte play
. It feels like I'm driving a Porshe now...ehhh...maybe not that good
.
. My wheel had a TON of play in it before and this took 75% of it away. So for those of you out there that have really loose sterring, this was a well worth while, cheap (20 bucks) and easy fix with great results. Of course if you have over 100K on the original steering box you'll still have a litte play
. It feels like I'm driving a Porshe now...ehhh...maybe not that good
.Was that a dealer item? Please post the part number so the rest of us can go get one.
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This place has the single u-joint shaft for $208.
http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/19to19dodtru.html
http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/19to19dodtru.html
This place has the single u-joint shaft for $208.
http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/19to19dodtru.html
http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/19to19dodtru.html
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Actually that's part number 044434534AC. It ranges from 10-20 bucks. This might help too - http://ramchargercentral.com/index.p...owtoshow;id=16
When you talk about the "coupler" are you speaking of the part between the shaft and the steering box? I replaced the "guts" inside of mine last year and it did make a big difference,however now I'm starting to get some play again,Ive heard some guys say that you can drill out and put a grease fitting in the side of that piece and that will extend the life.What do you think of that idea?My truck is a 4x4 so should I do that or think about dropping the cash on a Borgenson?
If you have the ability to make *quality welds, then you can weld your own shaft with heavy duty spicer parts (beefier than the Borgeson, from what I've heard) for about $70 or less. Works great for us 4x4 guys.
*I say quality welds because this can be dangerous with bad welds.
*I say quality welds because this can be dangerous with bad welds.
The common method of curing steering shaft ills, around here, is to slide the bottom portion of a 2nd Gen. U-jointed shaft over the 1st Gen. shaft. cut to proper lengths, and weld them together.
Some strategic filing has to be done, at the steering-gear spline, in order to get the 2nd Gen. yoke to fasten securely on the 1st Gen. splines.
The 2nd Gen. shaft is a precise slip-fit over the 1st Gen. shaft.
The 2nd Gen. shaft also has a telescoping section that the 1st Gen. shaft lacks.
Both Borgeson and Flaming River can be ordered direct from the manufacturers.
I bought the Borgeson, on my Ford, straight from Borgeson, for less than I was quoted from several other sources.
I have not seen both brands, side by side; but, when I get one for the son's truck, I am going to try a Flaming River.
The Flaming River has a spring-loaded shock-absorber incorporated in the shaft and is a NO CUT NO DRILL DROP IN application.
I sprung an extra forty bucks for a "shock absorbing" upgrade, on my Borgeson, and still can feel every little pebble in the road (of course, I was used to the completely worn-out original shaft that was so loose that all shock was gone by the time it got to the steering-wheel.).
Never-the-less, my truck DRIVES a thousand times better than it ever did before.
BORGESON
http://www.borgeson.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
FLAMING RIVER
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...rod/prd212.htm
I hope this helps.
Some strategic filing has to be done, at the steering-gear spline, in order to get the 2nd Gen. yoke to fasten securely on the 1st Gen. splines.
The 2nd Gen. shaft is a precise slip-fit over the 1st Gen. shaft.
The 2nd Gen. shaft also has a telescoping section that the 1st Gen. shaft lacks.
Both Borgeson and Flaming River can be ordered direct from the manufacturers.
I bought the Borgeson, on my Ford, straight from Borgeson, for less than I was quoted from several other sources.
I have not seen both brands, side by side; but, when I get one for the son's truck, I am going to try a Flaming River.
The Flaming River has a spring-loaded shock-absorber incorporated in the shaft and is a NO CUT NO DRILL DROP IN application.
I sprung an extra forty bucks for a "shock absorbing" upgrade, on my Borgeson, and still can feel every little pebble in the road (of course, I was used to the completely worn-out original shaft that was so loose that all shock was gone by the time it got to the steering-wheel.).
Never-the-less, my truck DRIVES a thousand times better than it ever did before.
BORGESON
http://www.borgeson.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
FLAMING RIVER
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...rod/prd212.htm
I hope this helps.








