When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
although they're for the 2nd gen fuel heater. The male end is the same, because I can put a 2nd gen fuel heater on our engine, when mine goes.
I'm sure you can buy a generic plug end through an electronics store, or auto parts store, but I'd be lying if I knew what the replacement part is named or sized as. Hopefully someone will chime in. Again, Ollie might have one.
I was looking into one of these. Looks interesting, although it would need to go on a switch / relay or activated with a timer, or maybe can be kept on all the time during winter season. Battery draw would be a real concern.
Just for clarification it's the FUEL heater above the filter/separator that I need not the block heater
Do you need the fuel heater itself or the plug to go on the wire to the heater. RockAuto may have the plug. I don't think the first gen heaters are available anymore. Here's how to fit the 2nd gen heater.
I believe that Cummins uses a Deutsch connector, but I could be wrong.
But I would check with Cummins first.
I need the seal that goes on my WIF connector.
The male end is the same, because I can put a 2nd gen fuel heater on our engine
The connector for the second generation heater is different from the 1st generation heater.
The second generation plug is available from a few sources as outlined in the conversion thread.
I would be quite certain that the original style heater was still working before going to the trouble of finding that plug -- the plating on top of the ceramic disc of the heating element likes to corrode away, which is why the second gen replacement is necessary.
Wire nuts with a little dielectric grease in them will outlive you and the heater.
Generally, if I'm hooking something up that doesn't require easy disconnect for maintenance, I crimp on a bare sleeve connector, solder it, and insulate it with adhesive lined shrink tube.
Wire nuts with a little dielectric grease in them will outlive you and the heater.
Generally, if I'm hooking something up that doesn't require easy disconnect for maintenance, I crimp on a bare sleeve connector, solder it, and insulate it with adhesive lined shrink tube.
I do something similar but I don't crimp. I use special twist splice and then cover it with shrink tubing. You can solder it if you like but if the wire is clean and the shrink seals then soldering is unnecessary.
ALWAYS remember to put the shrink tubing on one of the two wires before you splice them. I hate it when I forget. If you're using stranded wire leather gloves helps prevent getting a finger poked.
Thank you Edwin!!! Why I never thought of those types of twist connections I don't know... course I've got two left thumbs when it comes to wiring and have always hated the big twisted clump of wire mess wrapped up with black tape!!
Thank you Edwin!!! Why I never thought of those types of twist connections I don't know... course I've got two left thumbs when it comes to wiring and have always hated the big twisted clump of wire mess wrapped up with black tape!!
When I was a kid the black tape was all we had. I hate it because the adhesive is always a mess. I love shrink tubing and only on this forum did I find out that you can get it with heat seal glue inside which is far superior IMHO. The nice thing about this splice is it's stronger than laying the two wires next to each other and then twisting. Wire-nuts may be great for house wiring but not great for automotive stuff that is subject to weather and vibration.
I'm not a big fan of the crimp style butt splices because they look ungainly. The uninsulated ones with heat shrink is better but sometimes you just don't have everything you need on the side of the road.
I do something similar but I don't crimp. I use special twist splice and then cover it with shrink tubing. You can solder it if you like but if the wire is clean and the shrink seals then soldering is unnecessary.
ALWAYS remember to put the shrink tubing on one of the two wires before you splice them. I hate it when I forget. If you're using stranded wire leather gloves helps prevent getting a finger poked.
Wow,
You can tell we are old when we can remember the old Western Union splice, and do not forget the tap splice.
I used to use alot of sticky friction tape, and I can still remember the smell.
The idea of the Western Union splice was the weight of the wire span made the mechanical joint tighter.
Jim
Wow,
You can tell we are old when we can remember the old Western Union splice, and do not forget the tap splice.
I used to use alot of sticky friction tape, and I can still remember the smell.
The idea of the Western Union splice was the weight of the wire span made the mechanical joint tighter.
Jim
Thanks Jim for the proper name of that splice. I like old electricity books where I find a lot of this stuff. I like the Audels series and I would love to find more of them.
Duh, I read engine heater, when it specifically says fuel heater.
